74 FORMULATING FOR MILDNESS
Considerations when formulating mild products
Jennifer Hermitage – Cornelius Care, UK
‘Mild’ is defined as anything that it is not severe, serious, or harsh, with synonyms including ‘gentle’. Our desire for mild products is surely therefore a natural one, as we would all prefer to use something gentle rather than harsh on our bodies. However, defining mildness in the context of cosmetic products is not so simple, as we can only compare it relatively against other products. As both a formulator and a consumer, the least I would expect from a mild product is that it did not make my skin feel uncomfortable. But I would also want it to impart a degree of comfort that was not previously felt. To certain groups of consumers this quest for mild preparations is an important one. Sensitive skin is on the increase – or at least it is perceived to be - a fact documented in many articles. The self- reportable condition is defined by symptoms such as tightness, dryness, redness and itching and has been dubbed “chrono-sensitivity” by Lancôme. The fact that a major beauty brand has given the condition a scientific sounding label demonstrates that there is a niche in the market to cater for sufferers. Soap bars were traditionally used to cleanse the skin but often caused dryness and tightness, prompting most to move on from this cleansing method several years ago, especially as in some countries up to 91% of people claim to have sensitive skin. This high figure could be because the internet has increased awareness or it could
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be because, as we increasingly experiment with beauty products, we are more likely to find something that irritates. Interestingly, more men than women report sensitive skin, probably due to the added irritancy shaving can cause.
In addition to those with sensitive skin,
there are many individuals with recognised skin complaints such as dermatitis, eczema and psoriasis who need to use mild preparations. These might be prescription products or purchased from brands recognised for catering for these consumers, such as E45 and Oilatum. A growing group of mild product consumers is parents of babies and young children. Even those who may be willing to compromise their own comfort think very carefully about what they wash their child’s delicate skin with. The skin is a complex organ and epidermal maturation is not complete until a baby is 34 weeks old (or older in a premature baby). Today’s parents are paying increasing attention to the products they use to care for their infant’s delicate skin and are often prepared to spend more money and time researching products for their baby than they would for themselves. A search for mild baby products quickly brings up many that are natural and organic. Natural and organic groups of products
are understandably perceived as being mild. If it came from nature, it must be safe – right? But there is in fact no correlation between naturalness and mildness.
However, organic certified surfactants do tend to come from milder surfactant groups. With the creation of the Cosmos standard it would appear that there are greater numbers of Organic-certified products to choose from and these are restricted in the surfactant systems that they can use. Interestingly, certain sulfates can be used in Organic-certified wash products but not the staple SLES, which means formulators need alternative materials.
Surfactant types Arguably the area where people are most concerned about mildness is with wash products. Who has not used a wash product – and by this I mean something that lathers with the addition of water and is rinsed – and felt that their skin is dry and tight after use? Traditional soaps are produced by saponifiying the triglycerides of vegetable or animal oils and fats. They typically have a pH of 9-12 and a soap made from short chain fatty acids produces higher foaming and higher skin aggression than one made with longer chains. Many users of the traditional soap bar complain of tightness, a phenomenon which is still yet to be fully explained, but it is probable that the sensation is caused by an unexplained stiffening of the stratum corneum which is perceived as tightness.1
Whatever the
reason, a vegetable-derived soap is a good example of when a natural product is not mild.
April 2018
©Phils Photography/Fotolia
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