SKIN PROTECTION 107
Initial conditions
Effect of a period of transient stress
After 1 week
treatment with Actibiome
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Figure 4: Variation of skin microbiota print of volunteers during a temporary period of stress and after 1 week treatment with 1% Actibiome.
improve not only the production of sebum by sebocytes, but also the quality of sebum. Sebum discharge occurs in the final stages of differentiation of sebocytes. Improving the quantity of sebum available for the emulsion of the HLF goes through the improvement of sebocytes differentiation. Tested at 0.02% in a culture of human sebocytes, organic mekabu concentrate induces +18% expression of gene MUC1 (mucin 1) involved in the differentiation of sebocytes; and +35% expression of gene AQP3 which participate to sebocytes maturation through the channeling of water and glycerol. This participates to improve the differentiation but also the size of mature sebocytes. Coupled with a stimulation of genes involved in sebum lipids biosynthesis, this leads to +27% sebum production (Fig 1). Along with increased sebum secretion rate, quantitative modification of sebum is important for the emulsion of HLF. The most characteristic products of sebaceous secretion are squalene and wax ester. They are unique to sebum and not found anywhere else in the body. They correspond to major components supplying the skin with protection. The hydrolipidic emulsion obtained from squalene is less fatty and less thick than that obtained with triglycerides (fatty acids and glycerides).
April 2018
Organic mekabu concentrate not only increases the quantity of sebum produced by sebocytes in a model of dry skins, but also its quality, with 2X more squalene & wax ester (Fig 2). To increase the water part of the HLF,
organic mekabu concentrate improves the water storage capacities of the dermis to increase the global water reservoir of the skin. Then it reinforces stratum corneum cohesion to trap water diffusing from the deeper layers. Tested at 0.01% on reconstructed human skins, organic mekabu concentrate increases the expression of genes involved in proteoglycans synthesis: + 115% hyaluronic acid synthase 3 (HAS3); +124% syndecan 4 (SDC4); +117% syndecan binding protein 2 (SDCBP2); and stimulates the expression of genes involved in the integrity and cohesion of skin barrier: + 192% coding Small Proline-Rich protein 2F (SPRR2F), + 330% and +445% Cornified Envelope Proteins LCE3A, LCE3C and +85% transglutaminase TGM5. In vivo studies conducted on volunteers with dry skin on the face and perceiving a high constant discomfort sensation, have finally shown that 0.1% organic mekabu concentrate helps dry skins to recover their suppleness: up to +33% after 2 weeks. While HLF deficient skins are characterised by rough and dull complexion, organic
mekabu concentrate helps very dry skins to recover a satin aspect: up to +33% after 2 weeks (Fig 3). And then treatment with organic mekabu concentrate provides dry skins with a significant reduction in discomfort compared to the placebo (p<0.05 after 28 days).
How to rebalance skin microbiota? To understand whether busy life can impact skin microbiota, the microbiota prints of 2 groups of volunteers have been studied. Using the famous Perceived Stress Scale (PSS) developed by Sheldon Cohen,5
we
have been able to measure the perception of stress of volunteers and then to identify and select a group of stressed and a group of unstressed volunteers. The microbiota print of each volunteer has been analysed; involving biostatisticians and microbiologists. More than 600 bacterial genus have been sequenced and analysed. Thanks to this study and for the first time, a microbiota print of stressed skin has been defined. It appears very clearly that stress not only imbalances skin microbiota but also decreases microbiota diversity (Fig 4). When we have a look to the genus which
are the more significantly impacted by a period of stress, we observe that microbiota print of stressed skins is characterised by an increase in anaerobic bacteria that can
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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