84 ANTI-POLLUTION Phase I AHR
Activation CYP
HO OH
Toxin (BaP)
Reactive Intermediate Cell Damage Phase II Nrf2 O
Conjugation GST
S-Glutathione
HO HO
OH Excretable Product Detoxification
in a unique matrix of phospholipids and maltodextrin. The active ingredient targets all stages of endogenous detoxification and reduces pollution-induced skin damage:
Watercress (Nasturtium officinale) – detoxifying
The detoxifying effect of botanical extracts from watercress is predominantly ascribed to isothiocyanates.13,14
In fact, a current study among Isothiocyanates activate
phase I and phase II detoxifying enzymes and support the skin’s endogenous detoxification machinery.15
Figure 1: The joined action of AHR and Nrf2 trigger the elimination of toxins in a two-phase process. In phase I the toxin Benzo[a]pyrene (BaP) becomes activated by oxidation. Subsequently, in Phase II, S- glutathione is conjugated to the activated toxin. The now water-soluble conjugate can be excreted via the kidneys.
smokers lead to significantly less damage through toxins in cigarette smoke after administering watercress extracts.16
Nettle (Urtica dioica) – antioxidant, detoxifying Quercetin, one of the active components of nettle,17
enhances the activity of Nrf2 - the
master regulator of the detoxification machinery - and helps to activate detoxifying and antioxidant enzymes.7,12 Moreover, quercetin and the phenylpropanoid caffeoylquinic acid, present in nettle extract, protect from antioxidative stress generated in Phase I of the detoxification process.
Horsetail extract (Equisetum arvense) – protecting, antioxidant, detoxifying A high silica content is a hallmark trait of horsetail, which already absorbs pollutants before they come into contact with the skin’s surface. Furthermore, horsetail extract contains flavonoids, in particular, kaempferol, quercetin and protogenkwanin glycoside14,18,19 that support the detoxification process in Phase I and Phase II by their antioxidant and Nrf2-enhancing activity.
Hydrogenated lecithin – protecting, barrier-forming Hydrogenated phospholipids reinforce the skin’s barrier function. They are essential constituents of cellular membranes, and facilitate skin renewal.20,21
This way, topical
formulations containing hydrogenated lecithin prevent pollutants from entering the epidermis. In summary, the active ingredient
presented here is a powerful anti-pollution cosmetic active ingredient.
Phytochemical analysis Objective To identify the main active constituents of the active ingredient and to evaluate their stability.
Figure 2: Mode of action - Pollutants, such as polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH), adhere to particulate matter (PM) and may penetrate the skin. As a first line of defence, hydrogenated lecithin and silica strengthen the barrier function of the skin and impede skin contact with pollutants.22 Pollutants, once entered the epidermis, bind to AHR which triggers the expression of enzymes of Phase I. At this stage, pollutants become activated for further processing, but harmful substances are also formed. As a second line of defence, antioxidants of nettle and horsetail extracts neutralise these reactive oxygen substances and prevent cellular damage. In Phase II of the detoxification process, active ingredients derived from watercress, nettle, and horsetail activate Nrf2 and shift the balance in favour of phase II15,16
which ensures rapid detoxification of these reactive intermediates. PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Techniques High performance thin layer chromatography (HPTLC) was used to assess the overall flavonoid composition. Dereplication analysis, using liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry as well as UV - and light scattering detectors (LC-MS/UV/ELSD)
April 2018
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