56 FORMULATING FOR MILDNESS
collected at the end of the incubation period (T24h). The actives found in the washing liquids, the receptor fluid and the different skin compartments were quantified using HPLC for molecule A and LC-MS-Multiple Reaction Monitoring (MRM) for molecule B. Figure 2 (upper left panel) shows the distribution of caffeine (molecule A) in the different skin compartments, at the end of the incubation period (T24h). The active was found in all compartments, including the receptor fluid. In all cases, penetration was more important in the presence of the biomimetic emulsifier. Globally, the bioavailability of caffeine was increased by +2.3 times in the presence of the biomimetic emulsifier. Figure 2 (lower panel) shows that the diffusion of caffeine to the receptor fluid over time happened +1.9 times faster in the presence of the biomimetic emulsifier. Figure 2 (upper right panel) shows the distribution of hexapeptide (molecule B) in the different skin compartments, at the end of the incubation period (T24h). In the absence of the biomimetic emulsifier, the active was mainly found in the epidermis compartment and, to a lesser extent, in the stratum corneum (SC). In the presence of the biomimetic emulsifier, diffusion of hexapeptide was significantly increased in both compartments and even reached the dermis. Globally, the bioavailability of hexapeptide was increased by +8.5 times in the presence of the biomimetic emulsifier. These results confirm that the biomimetic emulsifier constitutes an efficient delivery system assuring more effective and faster diffusion of actives.
Active properties On top of being a performant natural emulsifier and an efficient delivery system, the biomimetic emulsifier also is a cosmetic active ingredient that supports skin functions.
Effects on hydration and barrier function Keeping the skin hydrated is crucial for skin
Immediate smoothing affect 5% BiophilicTM
6 4 2 0
-2
Fringe projection on the crow’s feet on 23 women, completed by image analysis Placebo: Water q.s. Sodium Hyaluronate 0.25% Active formula: Water q.s. BiophilicTM
Figure 4: Smoothing effect of Biophilic H. PERSONAL CARE EUROPE April 2018
H + Hyaluronic acid Water + Hyaluronic acid * p,0.05
5.1%* * p,0.05 0 -7%* -10 14%* 16%* 17%* -20 -30 -23%* -40 1h
Time (hours) 4h
Gel with 5% BiophilicTM 8h tested on legs of 10 Volunteers with dry skin
Figure 3: Effects of Biophilic H on hydration and barrier function.
health and appearance. Poor hydration alters the barrier function of the skin leaving it more vulnerable to external aggressors. A loss of hydration also reduces skin flexibility and precipitates wrinkle formation. Hydration depends on proper water diffusion from the dermis reservoir to the epidermis and its retention by the SC. Intracellular lipids at the SC hold corneocytes together and form a barrier that prevents excessive water loss. Their multilamellar arrangement is responsible for holding water and participates to the barrier function of the skin.4
Maintaining
the lipid structure of the SC is thus primordial for both hydration and protection of the skin.
The potential of the biomimetic emulsifier to improve hydration and support the barrier function of the skin, on its own, was evaluated on a panel of 10 women volunteers aged between 20 and 60 years, presenting dry skin on their legs. A gel containing 5% biomimetic emulsifier was applied on defined zones of the right leg of each volunteer. Hydration and trans- epidermal water loss (TEWL) were evaluated at T0, T1h, T4h, and T8h using a corneometer and a tewameter respectively.
0 -10 -5
Smoothing effect and reduction of deep wrinkles appearance
A smooth skin is a skin that is even, flat, not rough and has no wrinkles. Baby’s skin is the perfect smooth skin. Unfortunately, wrinkle formation is the rule with ageing. However, some anti-ageing strategies can slow down the process or improve wrinkle appearance once formed. Skin cares that support hydration and barrier function are particularly relevant. Sodium hyaluronate (HA) is known for having this kind of effects and is largely used in formulation aiming at reducing wrinkles’ appearance.5 The potential of the biomimetic emulsifier to optimise HA effects on wrinkle appearance was evaluate in a split- face study, on a panel of 23 Caucasian women aged between 45 and 55 years with healthy skin. At the time of the study, all volunteers were displaying wrinkles and/or fine lines around the outer corners of the eyes, in a pattern that resembles crow’s feet. For each volunteer, a cream containing 0.25% HA was applied once, randomly, on the crow’s feet area of one eye, while a mixture of 5% biomimetic emulsifier plus 0.25% low molecular weight HA was applied on the crow’s feet area of the other eye. Modifications of the cutaneous topography around both eyes was monitored by fringe projection and image analysis at T0 (before application), at Timm (immediately after application), at T1h and T2h. Figure 4 (left panel) shows that application of the biomimetic emulsifier plus HA immediately increased skin smoothness by an average of +5.1% compared to baseline (T0), while HA alone
Deep wrinkle appearance reduction 5% BiophilicTM
2 0
T immediate
-2 -4 -6 -8
-3.8%* -4.5%*
H + Hyaluronic acid Water + Hyaluronic acid * p,0.05
-7%* -15 -20
Hydration and TEWL results were expressed in terms of variation from baseline measurements (T0). Figure 3, shows that the biomimetic emulsifier improved skin moisturisation over time by +14% (T1h), +16% (T4h) and +17% (T8h) in average, while TEWL decreased concomitantly by -7% (T1h), -7% (T4h) and - 23% (T8h).
T 1h H 5%, Sodium Hyaluronate 0.25%
Fringe projection on the crow’s feet on 23 women, Placebo: Water q.s. Sodium Hyaluronate 0.25% Active formula: Water q.s. BiophilicTM
T 2h H 5%, Sodium Hyaluronate 0.25%
Standardized hydration variation (% vs. TO)
Standardized TEWL variation (% vs. TO)
Deep wrinkle amplitude variation (% vs. T0)
Skin smoothness improvement (% vs. T0)
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