8 NEWS
Natural, silicone-like feel
Cosphatec has launched Cosphaderm Feel, an ingredient suitable for natural cosmetic producers who do not want to miss out on silicone-like features. As a replacement for silicones (e.g.
cyclomethicone D5) the product has a very high spreadability and excellent skin compatibility. Cosmetic formulators can apply Cosphaderm Feel as an emollient in W/O- as well as in O/W-emulsions and create products with a light, mildly lubricating and silky skin sensation. Cosphaderm Feel is an ideal solvent for UV-filters and pigments and therefore fits well with sun care products as well as colour cosmetics. Moreover, Cosphaderm Feel is an easy-to-apply liquid which can be used pH- independently in a concentration of 5%-10%. On top of all these
properties, Cosphaderm Feel is a 100% naturally- derived triglyceride of heptanoic acid. Sourced from castor oil, the cosmetic raw material is palm oil-free and Cosmos certified.
Novel evaluation for SPF
Botaneco is studying new approaches to evaluate the SPF of sun care products containing natural ingredients, such as oleosomes. This is because current in vitro SPF screening methods often show less reliability than emerging assays, mainly spectrophotometrics. “Our goal is to find a simple,
faster, more reliable in vitro method to verify the SPF of formulas containing organic UV filters and natural ingredients,” said Soo In Yang, research scientist, Botaneco. “Whatever assay is adopted in the laboratory must be reproducible with the US FDA in vivo protocol. One such test method involves spectrophotometrics, the quantitative measurement
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of the reflection or transmission properties of a material.” A study, shows how
spectrophotometric measurement of organic UV filters, embeded within an all- natural safflower oleosome, correlates with in vivo SPF testing. Specifically, Yang and others on the study team observed a high correlation for
SPF 30 product models. They compared the spectrophotometric observation to a 2-subject in vivo clinical measurement, the results of which were further supported by a follow-up 10-person in vivo SPF study.
“The average value of the
in vivo SPF test was SPF 31.98., where the spectrophotometric method provided an equivalent SPF average of 31.19. This demonstrates that the mean SPF values from the in vivo and spectrophotometric measurements are statistically identical, confirming the spectrophotometric method is reliable and comparable to in vivo SPF testing results,” said Yang.
New approach to innovation
With the aim of stepping away from mainstream trends presentations, Gattefossé has unveilied Inspiration, a new tool to help formulators be one step ahead of market trends. Inspiration is a set of topics allowing formulators to reinvent their products with new ideas, showing new usages of Gattefossé ingredients. These topics have different degrees of originality to answer different needs and expectations in creativity. Each topic is illustrated by
formulations developed by Gattefossé cosmetic application laboratories and comes with a booklet and a presentation. The booklet and presentation are used to illustrate the topics in an innovative way with examples coming from the beauty world but also from other fields such as food, fashion or culture. In 2018, Inspiration presents
three topics: Move It, Be Fresh and Think Twice. Move It enhances the workout experience for consumers which are interested in getting and
Sensory-enhancing range additions
Inolex has unveiled its next generation of alternatives for cyclomethicone fluids in response to growing market demand for silicone-free ingredient options. LexFeel WOW and LexFeel WOW DT are 100% plant-based, sensory enhancing silicone alternatives with a uniquely luxurious and light after-feel.
Partially volatile and non- flammable, LexFeel WOW and LexFeel WOW DT are derived
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
from 100% renewable and sustainable building blocks, such as coconut, castor bean and sugarcane. LexFeel WOW and LexFeel WOW DT are palm-free, pending Ecocert and NSF certifications, and globally approved for use in cosmetic and personal care applications. “For the past decade, Inolex has been ahead of the curve in providing brands and ultimately consumers with natural solutions in several major categories, including
alternative preservation and silicone alternatives. These latest ingredients build on our expertise in natural silicone alternatives and introduce a next generation of innovation that is 100% plant- based with remarkable performance and sensory characteristics,” said Rocco Burgo, chief scientist at Inolex. LexFeel WOW is a partially volatile, light and fast spreading emollient that absorbs quickly to provide a slight cushion with an
exceptional, soft after-feel suitable for a broad range of beauty care applications. LexFeel WOW DT delivers the same functionality in an ultra-light fluid with a cascading silky-to-powdery after-feel. LexFeel WOW DT has the added functionality of an anti-whitening agent.
April 2018
staying healthy and fit; Be Fresh is inspired by the cold and reinvents freshness through innovative textures; and Think Twice talks about illusions and trompe-l’oeil through cosmetic products which are not what you would expect. Eight innovative formulations have been created forcustomers. Among them are “Coco Sweat”, a sweatproof powder which needs to be diluted in water; “Ice, Ice, Baby”, a day cream cold as an ice cube; or the “Liquid Balm” with a name that speaks for itself.
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