MARINE INGREDIENTS 141
Fucoidan hydrolysation technology analysed
Charles-Henri Morice – Lessonia, France
The marine environment is a rich source of biological and chemical diversity. Interestingly, algae developed adaptive responses to environmental stress (UV, temperature, bacteria, pressure, turbulence…) and thus they are able to produce saccharides or other active molecules. Brown seaweeds are the most frequent seaweed surviving in the extreme conditions of the Iroise sea, mainly due to their ability to produce and secrete some fucoidan compounds in their cellular walls. Lessonia, a French cosmetic company, developed two speciality active ingredients from fucoidans. Fucoreverse is a hydrolysed fucoidan extracted from these luminaria. In vitro and in vivo tests show anti-ageing properties. Fucowhite is a purified fucoidan- phloroglucinol complex, extracted from Ascophyllum nodosum. Fucowhite is a clinically validated skin whitening ingredient which significantly decreases skin pigmentation.
The hydrolysation technology What are fucoidans? Fucoidans are polymers composed of sulfated fucose. They are insoluble high molecular weight molecules: 50 to 1000 kDalton. They are known to demonstrate a wide range of biological activities including stimulation of the cellular metabolism and immunomodulation. Fucoidans are a class of non-gelling, sulphated polysaccharides found only in brown macro algae. Their sugar backbone composition, structure and sulphation patterns differ according to their origin and
Abstract
French company, Lessonia, has developed a hydrolysation technology applied to fucoidans. This technology involves hydrolysing these fucoidan polymers to obtain precise fractions of biologically active oligosaccharides. The fucoidan’s low molecular weight is globally unique. The mass of molecular weight < 2 kDa can be absorbed directly through the human skin. The hydrolysation process increases the skin care and anti-ageing effect of the fucoidan compared to the standard macromolecular structure. Lessonia developed two active ingredients from fucoidans, FucoreverseTM anti-ageing ingredient and FucowhiteTM
is an a whitening ingredient.
the extraction techniques used. The common feature is a high content of the backbone sugar - fucose. Fucoidans have diverse bioactivity including heparin-like anticoagulant activity, inhibition of selectins and scavenger receptors, inhibition of viral entry to cells and immunomodulation. Fucoidans also inhibit UVB-induced MMP expression in vitro, and are a good inhibitors of the dermal remodelling enzymes called matrix metalloproteinases.1
Interestingly,
topical fucoidan was as effective as the gold standard topical steroid cream when applied to anatopic dermatitis model in mice.2
The unique composition The fucoidans can be hydrolysed until an extremely low molecular weight is obtained. Fucoreverse (now referred to as ‘the anti-ageing active’) is a combination of fucose mono-, di- and trimers. The second interest of this technology is to saturate the fucose molecules in sulfated groups. Figure 2 shows the lowest possible molecular weight and the highest degree of sulfation.
Consequences on biological activity The biological activity of fucoidan derivatives is in inverse proportion to the molecular weight of these molecules. The shorter the saccharide chain, the greater the biological activity of the fucoidan derivative. The biological activity is also in direct correlation to the fucoidan derivative’s degree of sulfation. In effect it is these sulfated derivatives which, by attaching themselves to biological receptors, lead to cosmetic activity.3
Skin absorption By using hydrolysis technology it is possible to obtain highly ionised water-soluble oligofucoidans with an extremely low molecular weight. These 3 criteria define the skin absorption capacity of a cosmetic agent. This is why the anti-ageing active is so easily and so rapidly absorbed across the skin’s barrier.3
Protecting and repairing the Extracellular matrix (ECM) The passing of the years has negative effects on the skin and its properties, worsening them. There are biochemical, histological and physiological alterations that include ECM functional impairment, collagen and elastin degradation, and slower metabolism rate. The degenerative changes that come with age can cause facial skin to lose its vibrancy. A major factor in this process is the degradation of the extracellular matrix of the dermal connective tissue.
Figure 1: Chemical structure of fucoidan polymer. April 2018
The extracellular matrix in the dermis is composed of a molecular network
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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