106 SKIN PROTECTION 350 300 250 x2 200 150 100 100 50 0 Sebocytes cultivated without Wakapamp Sebocytes cultivated with Wakapamp


Figure 3: variation of the fraction represented by squalene and wax ester in sebum produced by human sebocytes cultivated in dry skin model conditions, without (A) and with 0.02% Wakapamp (B) for 8 days.


we observe a democratisation of microbiota.


Among the factors that will participate daily in the dysbalance of skin microbiota, we recover roughly the same as for the HLF: soap cleansing, inappropriate products, and pollution which induces a decrease in the quantity of free water available for bacterial growth. Codif has also recently highlighted that a period of stress can also induce a dysbalance of skin


a


microbiota with an increase of lactic acid bacteria on skin surface. The development of this specific flora then induces an acidification of skin pH. But pH is determinant for the stability of HLF emulsion.


It rapidly appears that if the balance of HLF is a determinant for skin microbiota, the inverse is also true. We are here facing a “chicken or egg” story. Thus reinforcing natural skin protection means acting in


b


synergy on the balance of both skin microbiota and HLF.


A homemade protective biofilm with resident bacterial biofilm part of the HLF


A lot of solutions already exist to provide a protection against environmental factors, but none of them is able to provide 100% protection against all these factors together. The aim of this study is to review solutions to restore HLF and microbiota impaired by the accumulation of these damaging factors.


How to rebalance HLF? The unique nature of HLF; emulsion of surface lipids and surface water requires specific ingredients to take care of it. Codif laboratories have developed an oily concentrate of organic mekabu: Wakapamp, that will help to reconstitute the HLF of the skin by promoting the synthesis of its main components; that is to say surface lipids (with epidermal lipids + sebum) and surface water.


The lipid part of HLF is composed of glycerides, free fatty acids, wax ester, squalene and cholesterol.4


They are


Figure 4: Visualisation of the improvement of satin aspect on dry skins treated with 0.1% Wakapamp twice daily for 2 weeks. Aspect of the facial skin before (A) and after (B) treatment with Wakapamp.


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provided by both epidermal lipids and sebum; but only sebum is able to bring the wax esters and squalene to the HLF (Table 1). Tested at 0.01% on reconstructed human skins, Wakapamp (now referred to as ‘organic mekabu concentrate’) first activates the expression of genes involved in the synthesis of epidermal lipids: +68% Fatty Acid Elongase (ELOVL7); +75% UDP- glucose ceramide glucosyltransferase (UGCG) and +125% glucosylceramidase beta (GBA). Then, more uniquely, organic mekabu concentrate activates key factors to


April 2018


% variation versus untreated sebocytes


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