FORMULATING FOR MILDNESS 65 Conclusion


As a matter of fact the discussion ‘sulfate-free or not sulfate-free’ is one about the mildness of surfactants. To replace the sparsely mild sulfate surfactants, sulfonate surfactants are often used. Sulfoacetates and sulfosuccinates offer the advantages of sulfate surfactants (robust to water hardness, soluble in the whole relevant pH-range, easy to thicken, good foaming, suitable for the mass market) but additionally are very mild. As main surfactant components, the appropriate Zschimmer & Schwarz products for rinse-off products are Lumorol K 5019 (INCI: Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate) and Lumorol K 5303 (INCI: Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate). In the case of formulations with Lumorol K 5019 the addition of surfactants of the Protelan-Type (amino acid based surfactants) is recommended to improve the foaming properties. Lumorol K 5601 (INCI: Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate) is a special surfactant blend and the ideal solution for the concept ‘thickening without using thickeners’. This ready-to-use blend can simply be thickened by pH adjustment. This is analogue to the easy way of thickening the classical ethersulfate / betaine- system by adding salt.


PC


14 12 10 8 6 4 2


Standar 0d formulation SLES + CAPB


Colour protection shampoo Benchmark 1


Colour protection shampoo Benchmark 2


 Londa Emotion  Syoss  Sublime Mousse  Kür Color


Z&S Shampoo


Figure 9: Colour protection (different dye stuffs) by different shampoos, SLES: Sodium laureth sulfate, CAPB : Cocamido propyl betaine.


References 1 Wagner AT. Powerful surfactants from renewable raw materials, Personal Care Magazine 2016; 9(2): 34 - 36


2 Imokawa G. In: Surfactants in Cosmetics, Surfactant Science Series Vol. 68 1997, Chapter 19: Surfactant Mildness.


3 Simion FA. In: Surfactants in Cosmetics, Surfactant Science Series Vol. 68 1997, Chapter 23: Human In Vivo Methods for


Assessing the Irritation Potential of Cleansing Systems


4 Schwuger MJ, Lewandowski H. In: Anionic Surfactants, Surfactant Science Series Vol. 56 1995, Chapter 8: α- Sulfomonocarboxylic Esters


5 Domsch A, Irrgang B. In: Anionic Surfactants, Surfactant Science Series Vol. 56 1995 Chapter 9: Sulfosuccinates


April 2018


PERSONAL CARE EUROPE


∆E


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