HAIR CARE 159 Tests Clinical test results
The clinical tests showed an overall improvement in the appearance of the hair and scalp in 28 days. Tests were carried out for 28 days on a sample of 22 people (9 women and 13 men) aged 19 to 64 years-old with oily hair. Application three times a week on wet hair and scalp after shampoo, leaving on two to three minutes and then rinsing. Lipid (sebum) measurement using a Sebumeter and measurement of three other parameters by self-scoring emulsion containing 0.5% peppermint cell extract (liquid form)
At a concentration of 0.5%, sebum level
was reduced by 44%, oily appearance by 59%, dull appearance by 62% and scalp irritation by 71%
In vitro test results A general rebalancing effect was revealed by the in vitro test results. The regulating effect on the synthesis of lipids was due to a 26% decrease in 5 alpha-reductase and a 23% increase in free fatty acids. An antioxidant effect was observed due
to a decrease in the creation of total reactive oxygen species (ROS) induced by UVB and UVA. In addition to this there was a 24% decrease in lipid peroxidation induced by UVB in the scalp. The soothing effect can be attributed to
a decrease in the release of inflammation mediators, IL1-alpha (22%), IL-6 (20%) and PGE2 (19%) And IL1-alpha (24%), IL-6 (22%), PGE2 (18%) in the scalp.
In vitro: Regulating the quantity of oily substances
Hyperseborrhea is an excessive production of sebum, a substance produced by the sebaceous glands that are connected to the hair follicle by the hair canal. They contain a germinative layer that
produces sebocytes, cells that synthesise sebum, which they release at the end of their cycle, having undergone lysis, in the light of the sebaceous gland. They then enter the hair canal and are pushed out towards the scalp surface.
Sebaceous gland activity is controlled by
androgen sex hormones of testicular or ovarian origin, in particular testosterone. In the sebocytes, this hormone is converted into dihydrotestosterone (DHT) by the enzyme 5 alpha-reductase. After several more biochemical reactions, sebum is produced (consisting of mainly of triglycerides, fatty acid esters, free fatty acids, waxes, and cholesterol). Hyperseborrhea is thus due either to a
secretion of too much androgen, or elevated activity of the enzyme 5 alpha- reductase activity; it is the latter that Naolys decided to study. Downstream in sebum
April 2018
At the level of the hair bulb IL1-alpha (pg/ml)
IL-6 (pg/ml) PGE2 (pg/ml)
-22% -32% -38%
Negative control
UVB EP (0.5%) +UVB
EP (1%) +UVB
At the level of the bulb Decrease of IL1-alpha
IL1-alpha (pg/ml)
EP (2.5%) +UVB
Negative control
-20% -30% -34%
UVB EP (0.5%) +UVB
Decrease of IL-6 IL-6 (pg/ml)
EP (1%) +UVB
EP (2.5%) +UVB
Negative control
-19% -28% -33%
UVB EP (0.5%) +UVB
Decrease of PGE2 PGE2 (pg/ml)
EP (1%) +UVB
EP (2.5%) +UVB
-24% -31% -36%
Negative control
UVB EP (0.5%) +UVB
EP (1%) +UVB
Decrease of IL1-alpha
EP (2.5%) +UVB
Negative control
-22% -31% -35%
UVB EP (0.5%) +UVB
Decrease of IL-6 Figure 2: Study of inflammation mediators.
production process, Naolys also studied the production of free fatty acids that make up the sebum and lipids in the scalp: an increase in free fatty acids corresponds to a breaking down of lipids (triglycerides), which strengthens cohesion between corneocytes.
In a study of 5 alpha-reductase activity, the new ingredient demonstrated a reduction of activity of 26%, 31% and 38% at concentrations of 0.5%, 1%, and 2.5%. At the same time an increase of fatty acids was observed of 23%, 28% and 33%.
Protects and soothes Reduces the creation of free radicals in the hair bulb and scalp Because oxidation (due to environmental factors such as UV and pollution, and internal factors such as metabolism and stress) is a broad phenomenon that affects all skin cells, causing damage to their general structure, Naolys studied the effect of the peppermint cell extract on the initial formation of free radicals (ROS) in the hair bulb, and also the formation of malhondialdehyde, a product of lipid peroxidation (oxidation of lipid membranes) in the scalp.
A study showed a decrease of total ROS at the level of the hair bulb at concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%. The decrease of total ROS due to UVA/UVB was demonstrated in pre-treated keratinocytes respectively of 16%, 21% and 24% after 30 min and of 20%, 25% and 33% after 3 hours. In addition, at concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, decrease of lipid peroxidation induced by UVB (150 mJ/cm2
) was
observed, resulting in a decrease in the release of MDA rate respectively of 24%, 31% and 34%.
Reduces irritation
Inflammation is the tissue’s response to stress: it consists of all the defence
mechanisms through which any foreign substance is recognised, destroyed or removed. The start of inflammation, and its diffusion from its initial location, involves chemical factors (or inflammation mediators) which are synthesised locally or take the form of inactive precursors. Naolys studied three inflammation mediators synthesised in the hair bulbs and scalp: 2 cytokines (IL1-apha and IL-6) and a prostaglandin (PGE2).
Study of inflammation mediators At the level of the hair bulb the study showed a decrease of IL1-alpha at concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, after UVB induction. IL1-alpha decreases by 22%, 32% and 38% respectively. In addition a decrease of IL-6 was shown. At the same concentrations after UVB induction, IL-6 decreases by 20%, 30% and 34% respectively, while PGE2 decreases by 19%, 28% and 33%. At the level of the scalp, the study showed a decrease of IL1-alpha at concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, after UVB induction. IL1-alpha decreases by 24%, 31% and 36% respectively. IL-6 decreases by 22%, 31% and 35% at these same concentrations, while PGE2 decreases by 18%, 26% and 32% respectively.
Conclusion Soothing and regulating oily hair and scalp is the new mission of Naolys’s new active made with peppermint, EtHAIReal Peppermint. After 28 days of treatment, peppermint cells significantly limit the dull and oily aspect of hair, via active plant cells developed to deliver the highest amount of original active molecules. EtHAIReal Peppermint is an innovative
and effective ingredient for consideration by all formulators of shampoos, masks and serums.
PC PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
EP (1%) +UVB
EP (2.5%) +UVB
Negative control
-18% -26% -32%
UVB EP (0.5%) +UVB
Decrease of PGE2
EP (1%) +UVB
EP (2.5%) +UVB
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