FORMULATING FOR MILDNESS 69
a solvent to carry it into the final product. This ‘solvent free’ approach brings a
1,000,000 9000,000 800,000 700,000 600,000 500,000 400,000 300,000 200,000 100,000 0
0 Days 2 Days 7 Days Figure 4: SharoSense Plus challenge test.
optimisation process specific ratio was determined as the optimal way to achieve high efficacy. The cationic booster comprises less than 10% of the final maltol preservative blend, and even at this low level, it presents synergistic effect with maltol. The enhanced efficacy is demonstrated
in Figure 3, presenting a comparison of MIC results of maltol alone vs a blend with maltol as a main compound, enhanced by one of the options of cationic surfactants. Also in these products, due to the cationic profile of these preservative blends, it was critical to also test its efficacy
in a formula with anionic ingredients, common for rinse-off products. In the optimised blends, we can show
strong broad spectrum protection in anionic based products, as can be seen in Figure 4 of the challenge test results, passing USP and EP protocol at a level of use of 0.4% only, of the final formula. Most preservatives have a lipophilic
nature, which poses an antimicrobial challenge. The blends comprising of maltol with a cationic surfactant as an enhancer, demonstrate high solubility, and in fact are used in a powder form, with no need to use
14 Days 28 Days
strong benefit for the formulators who wish to avoid various solvents in their formula. This solution allows the formulator to choose a solvent that may already be in the formula, or avoid it altogether. None of the ingredients in this
A. niger C. albicans E. aureus
E. coli P. aeruginosa
preservative line are in fact considered preservatives, as they are not listed in Annex V of the Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. It is also interesting to note the activity maltol has in high pH range. Many of the popular preservative solutions such as organic acids are suitable for pH of up to 5.5, leaving fewer options for high pH products. Maltol however, demonstrates increased activity at pH of 6-8. This ‘preservative free’, natural-like solution is advanced in terms of efficacy and solubility. For those scientific reasons, a provisional patent was filed.
Conclusion
In conclusion, we found the link between natural and synthetic is a key to fill the gaps of the preservation needs of personal care industry. While SharoSENSE Plus with maltol core is a start, more options will follow, as we turn back to nature for solutions, and combine that with R&D in the labs.
PC
Tr
T eatm
t ent of
o dry and rou h ski
o gh k n caused
e by irregular lifestyle and stress
CHRONO CHARDY Natural Cosmetic Ingredient
＜Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract＞
CHRONO CHARDY enhances Genetic skin circadian rhythm
CHRONO CHARDY is listed in the Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredient in China 2015. The leading natural ingredient manufacturer for the cosmetic industry
318-1, Asagi, Motosu-shi, Gifu 501-0475 JAPAN Phone: +81(0) 58 320-1032 FAX: +81(0) 58 320-1039 e-Mail :
info@ichimaru.co.jp Official Website :
www.ichimaru.co.jp/english
April 2018
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
IECIC 2015
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