150 SKIN CARE
Addressing dual concerns of sustainability and trends
Dr Volker Rosenberger - DSM Personal Care, Switzerland
Skin is a living organ with ever-changing and sometimes conflicting needs. To meet the expectations of today’s consumers, skin care products must harness the skin’s own synergies, responding flexibly to daily changes in skin condition. Dual action products offer a host of options to meet these expectations, but the duality claim must be logical, credible and scientifically substantiated. At the same time, the demand for natural, ethically sourced and environmentally friendly ingredients is growing. Inspired by fermented Asian food DSM’s Beauactive®
is a naturally derived, highly pure,
potent hydroxystearic acid that provides two distinct benefits: it visibly reduces both conspicuous facial pores and age spots. Furthermore, it fulfills both DSM’s high standards on sustainability and the principles of Green Chemistry and embraces the latest trend for transformational beauty products, combining science with a fun, new sensory experience for consumers.
What consumers want: products that do more
How do we know? To keep in tune with consumers and deliver on-trend solutions that meet the needs of people all over the globe, DSM created The Beauty Connection. Our bespoke online community of beauty bloggers, experts and professionals keeps us up to the minute with insights from eight regional beauty markets. Recently, discussion among these beauty experts has focused strongly on the changing nature of skin needs. This affects not only long- term changes due to the ageing process, but
Parallel-polarised images
day to day fluctuations in skin condition depending on such diverse factors as whether the person has been eating well, getting enough sleep or been exposed to environmental stresses. Sometimes skin’s needs are even conflicting. What users want are customisable formulations so they can dial up or dial down functions in response to their skin’s immediate needs. At the same time however, there is skepticism about the efficacy of products claiming to meet more than one need, making claim substantiation more important than ever. As one of our bloggers told us: “For me, the proof is in the pudding. I rarely buy things sight unseen or reviews unread! I would have to hear that the product performed to standards above or equal to using the ingredients separately…”
Ageing skin: more than just wrinkles Another aspect of skin care that demands a response to diverse needs is skin ageing. Although all skin shows signs of ageing over time, DSM consumer research uncovered that the nature of these signs can vary considerably from one part of the world to another. Mention ageing skin and most people will think first of wrinkles, especially in the US and Western Europe. However, in Asia and in China in particular, DSM found that early signs of ageing tend to have enlarged pores and duller, more uneven skin tone.1
Enlarged pores in
mature skin tend to develop after the age of 30. This is related to biological ageing and the accumulation of damage from UV rays. Both these factors weaken the skin’s natural collagen, leading to sagging skin and larger
looking facial pores. This condition is different to the seborrhea of adolescence and therefore needs a different skin care approach. Age spots appearing on more exposed
areas of the body, such as the face, hands and décolleté, are another common complaint as skin ages. These are caused by long-term exposure to sunshine which increases melanocyte activity in the skin causing an irregular amount of melanin to be produced. Although enlarged pores and age spots are especially troubling to many people, few products currently target both problems. Consumers seeking solutions will often try a vast array of products, only to find them ineffective.
Inspired by nature… Studies from Mintel (December 2016) underline feedback from our own blogger community that the safety and ethics of skin care products is another prime consumer concern. In the minds of a significant number of consumers, natural products are associated with trustworthiness and many are strongly attracted to natural ingredients. The potential for natural products is huge and will continue to grow, especially as urban living cuts more and more people off from the natural environment generating a desire to connect with nature in other ways. The interest in natural ingredients also reflects more general concerns about the environment and ethical sourcing with studies showing that the majority of adults are prepared to make changes to their lifestyle to benefit the planet (Mintel September 2014).
Reduction of segmented pore surfaces (in blue) -10% -29%
Figure 1: Beauactive visibly improves the appearance of conspicuous facial pores. PERSONAL CARE EUROPE April 2018
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