ANTI-AGEING
Biotics as game-changer for healthy skin ageing
Sabrina Leoty-Okombi, Manon Gault, Laura Aversa, Nicolas Pelletier, Corinne Thiel, Valérie André-Frei - BASF
Care products with biotic ingredients have gained enormous popularity since they are known for improving health and wellness and are associated with eco-friendliness. More specifically, consumers are seeking products that naturally target the biological ageing process of the skin. Two new biotic active ingredients derived from the Lactobacillus crispatus (LC) bacterium are supporting cosmetics manufacturers in successfully responding to this trend. Probiolift™, (INCI: Maltodextrin (and)
Lactobacillus), helps to increase dermal density and correct forehead wrinkles. Postbiolift™ (INCI: Maltodextrin and Lactobacillus ferment) is proven to boost skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of crow’s feet wrinkles and help decrease the melanin index of pigmentated spots. They are among the first biotic dermocosmetic ingredients derived from bacteria that are naturally present on the skin. Probiolift in particular is a game changer in the field of healthy-ageing skin care since it is based on a living skin bacterium. The skin microbiome plays an important
role for health and wellbeing. It hosts millions of microorganisms such as bacteria, viruses and fungi, and it acts as a protective shield against environmental threats e.g. by pathogenic microorganisms. Therefore, the skin microbiome has become an important field of research for the personal care industry and its efforts to develop care products that help to preserve healthy and
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beautiful skin. Although the skin microbiome is considered a key factor for skin health, the relationship between the microbiome and the ageing processes of the skin is only partially known.1 To explore the skin microbiome’s evolution
over age, scientists at BASF studied the facial skin microbiota of younger and older people. A group of 50 younger participants, aged from 18 to 35 with wrinkle grades of 0-1 was compared to an older cohort of 50 participants aged above 55 with wrinkle grades 5-6. Samples from their microbiomes were
Lactococcus lactis■ Lactobacillus iners■ Lactobacillus crispatus■ Alloiococcus otitis■ Lactobacillus jensenii■ Lactobacillus gasseri■
80 60 40 20 0
Control Crow’s Feet Wrinkle
taken from three facial areas: within the wrinkle hollow, the crow’s feet and undereye zone, and as a control zone from the cheek area adjacent to the earlobe. After DNA extraction and human DNA
removal, the DNA was submitted to whole genome sequencing using Illumina HiSeq technology. The obtained microbial reads were analysed for taxonomy using MetaPhlAn and prevalence and abundance of some species were deducted.
Lactobacillus crispatus: a youth bacterium The results confirmed previous insights into the diversity of skin microbiota.2
The analysis
showed that in the older participants’ skin there was a decrease of both prevalence and abundance of the lactic acid bacteria, namely Lactobacilli. Of the six most prevalent lactic acid bacteria
in the wrinkle hollow, at least three were found in the young cohort but decreased in the older cohort. Among the more prevalent bacteria, LC was even below the detection level in the older cohort. The results of the comprehensive study
Young Old Young Old Young Old
Figure 1: Prevalence of lactic acid bacteria showing specificities in the wrinkle area, and even more in the wrinkle hollow
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indicate that aged skin is correlated with changes in skin microbiome, particularly a decrease in prevalence (Figure 1) and abundance (Figure 2) of LC. This gram-positive, rod-shaped anaerobic bacterium naturally occurs in some mucous membranes, the layer of cells that surrounds the body’s organs.3 It is a homofermentative organism that
April 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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