52 LIFESTYLE COSMETICS Control ■ NDP-MSH ■ NDP-MSH + 0.11%Chios mandarin extract ■
450 400 350 300 250 200 150 100 50 0
Figure 2: Synergistic stimulation of melanin synthesis
for the mastic tree, has calcium-rich soil that is based on limestone. The stable temperatures and the Meltemi winds give a mild microclimate that protects the fruits from frost during the winter months. Chios mandarins grow exclusively in very mild climatic conditions in traditional organic cultivation. The unique mandarin variety from the
Greek island of Chios, Citrus deliciosa (Citrus reticulata) var. Xio, has been registered in the EU since 2012 as a product with Protected Geographical Indication (PGI). Unlike the modern industrially produced fruits, this ancient variety of mandarins contains many seeds, which does not meet today’s market standards. The mandarins of Chios are still highly
appreciated for their excellent and intense aromatic properties and delicate fragrance as exquisite perfume essences. To produce perfume essences, both the juice and the peel of the fruit undergo a gentle distillation process in a traditional small distillery. The remaining rich and thick peel pulp
(pomace) is the starting material that is used to produce a Chios mandarin extract in an upcycling-inspired sustainable process. Mibelle Biochemistry’s mission was to develop an active ingredient from this very special waste material through an upcycling process to extract the valuable molecules from these special mandarins. For this active ingredient this unique mandarin peel extract is supplemented with acetyl tyrosine, which is the amino acid that
* p<0.001 versus Control * p<0.001 versus Noradrenaline
20 10 0
-10 -20 -30 -40
* *
300 250 200 150 100 50 0
* p<0.001 versus NDP-MSH-stimulated control * p<0.001 versus Control 1% Chios mandarin extract ■ *
*
DCT
acts as a substrate for the melanin synthesis in the melanocytes and thus also supports the product efficacy.
Stimulation of melanogenesis The efficacy of the Chios mandarin extract was demonstrated in various in vitro and clinical studies. As shown in B16 melanoma cells after 72 hours of treatment, Chios mandarin extract can stimulate melanin synthesis in a concentration-dependent manner. In addition, 0.1% Chios mandarin extract
synergistically enhanced melanogenesis induced by 0.1 µM NDP-MSH, an α-MSH analogue, in the same cell model, leading to an additional increase of more then threefold in melanin production. Thus, Chios mandarin extract, either alone or in combination with another melanogenesis activator, clearly stimulates melanin synthesis. Gene expression analysis of human
melanocytes treated with 1% Chios mandarin extract for 24 hours revealed the underlying mechanisms. Chios mandarin extract significantly stimulated the expression of DCT (+132%), the gene that encodes the enzyme dopachrome tautomerase needed conversion of dopachrome into 5,6-dihydroxyindole- 2-carboxylate, which is a basic step for the production of eumelanin. In addition, the treatment strongly
enhanced the expression of MKI-67 (+257%), encoding a marker of cell proliferation and thus indicating increased melanocyte proliferation.
Noradrenaline + 1% Chios mandarin extract ■ Noradrenaline ■ ** ** * * HMOX1 MC1R Figure 4: Restored gene expression in stressed cells PERSONAL CARE April 2023 CCN3
4.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0
Treatment *p<0.05 versus initial conditions
MKI67 Figure 3: Upregulation of melanogenesis-promoting genes
Furthermore, the increased expression of two genes (HMOX1, TXN) encoding enzymes that are involved in the defense against oxidative stress revealed antioxidant properties of Chios mandarin extract. This means the Chios mandarin extract
achieves its stimulatory effect on melanogenesis through several mechanisms, including the increased production of eumelanin, enhanced melanocyte proliferation, and the protection of melanocytes due to antioxidant properties.
Protection against stress-induced malfunction of melanocytes While genetic factors play the major role in hair greying, other factors, including stress, have been linked with premature hair greying. Scientific studies confirmed that the hormone noradrenaline, which is released upon stress, is involved in stress-induced hair greying.2 Interestingly, stress-induced hair greying can Melanocytes treated with 100 µM
be reversed.3
noradrenaline for 24 hours showed changed gene expression profiles, which indicate a stress- induced malfunction of these cells. Genes that are important for melanocyte function and melanogenesis were significantly downregulated. These genes included HMOX1 encoding heme oxygenase 1, which protects the cells from oxidative stress, MC1R encoding melanoncortin 1 receptor which is directly involved in melanogenesis and CCN3 encoding cellular communication network factor 3. The downregulation of CCN3 can lead to
2% MelanoGrayTM No Treatment *
* +25.5% +21.6%
Placebo ■ ■
0 Time (days) Figure 5: Long-lasting anti-greying effect
www.personalcaremagazine.com
120
150
Gene expression compared to control (=0) in %
Stimulation of melanin synthesis compared to NDP-MSH-stimulated control in %
NWH/WH ratio
Gene expression compared to control (=0) in %
greying
anti-greying
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