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INTERVIEW Tim Probert – Editor, Personal Care Global


Lorraine Dallmeier is the CEO of Formula Botanica, an online organic cosmetic formulation and business school that has educated nearly 20,000 formulators and indie beauty entrepreneurs in more than 175 countries. Here, Lorraine talks with editor Tim Probert about the latest industry trends, her courses and gives tips for prospective formulators


TIM PROBERT (TP): What trends are you seeing from the big cosmetic brands right now? LORRAINE DALLMEIER (LD): It’s been quite noticeable to see some of the big players launching brands that look like indie brands, with websites and packages that look like an indie brand. Some of them are also starting


to make shampoo bars and solid products because they’ve realised that is starting to become more part of consumer demand. It’s not the mainstream yet, but I think they can see that indie players are practically dictating where the market is going to go.


TP: What else are you seeing? LD: The sustainability conversation. I’m not seeing it manifest itself in the same way in the big players. They’re doing a lot, don’t get me wrong, but it’s mainly focused on them and their operations, rather than the big wide world around them. A great example is last year the


CEO of Unilever was asked how they would account for Scope 3 emissions from their products. He, very honestly, stood on stage and said he didn’t know. When you’ve got the big players saying that sort of thing, you realise there needs to be a whole shift in ethos in how we approach beauty. The big players are also still


very much stuck in an insecurity- based marketing mindset. ‘You’re ageing, you have wrinkles, your hair is going grey, you don’t want to look like this’ and so on. This is where I see indie brands do things differently. I certainly haven’t seen any Formula Botanica graduates say, ‘You’re not good enough because you have wrinkles, you must buy my product’. When you look at what the big


www.personalcaremagazine.com


players are saying, there’s a lot of high performance ingredients in the adverts. That’s because they’re trying to blind you with science into thinking you need these products. You just don’t get that from the indie sector in the same way, which I think empowers them to explore different ingredients.


TP: Do you see much interest in hair/scalp care from indie brands? LD: It’s certainly rising but I haven’t seen the indie sector move into hair care as strongly as I think it should. One reason for that is making hair care is harder than making skincare. You have a lot more stabilisation issues to deal with - most hair care formulations are water-based, which obviously comes with different requirements. But the biggest issue is that


the naturally-derived ingredients for haircare, silicone alternatives etc., are still far and few between and that has held back a lot of indie players. There’s talk about it, but there aren’t many indie hair care brands yet.


TP:You recently wrote an article for us that described true sustainability in the personal care industry means localism. Yet isn’t there a tension between scalability and sustainability at the larger end of the industry? LD: I agree there is a real challenge and one of the points I made in the article was that it’s easier to measure your impact from cradle to gate than it is from cradle to cradle. The moment it leaves the factory, the shipping requirements really kick in. I think it can knock all of your impacts and emissions out of whack.


INTERVIEW


Making your own


And, of course, by then you’re


no longer responsible for the product, you are responsible in terms of its delivery and the fact that it works. You are not looking after it on a day-to-day basis. I think that is obviously hugely challenging for most brands. This goes for all consumer sectors by the way, not just cosmetics. Most big brands just aren’t properly owning that conversation yet.


TP: What are your views on certification, green beauty scores and the like? LD: I think certifications have a place, but I am seeing them really fall out of favour in the indie community. I think there’s a couple of reasons for that, firstly it can be quite costly when you’ve just started a brand. You want to invest your money in marketing, not necessarily in certification.


Also, I think there is


certification fatigue. There is a new scheme landing in my inbox every month. It amazes me that more keep mushrooming out of the ground. I think a lot of the newer ones probably won’t be in existence ten years down the line. How can they be, when there’s such huge competition? And I think it confuses the


customer, how are they going to know what any of these things are? It may be, in future, that retail requirements overtake the certification schemes.


TP: Do you see value in the older schemes, like the Soil Association logo or COSMOS- approved? LD: I think the ‘OG’ certification schemes will still very much hold their place, they have meaning for a lot of shoppers because they


April 2023 PERSONAL CARE


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