MULTIFUNCTIONALS
Natural emulsifier for a sensitive skin shield
Myriam Abderrachid – Gattefossé
The skin is increasingly sensitive. Increasingly exposed to environmental factors (UV, aggressive products, pollution) and stress, it slowly loses its barrier function resulting in tightness, burning, tingling and redness. Indeed, a weak barrier function facilitates the penetration of irritants or allergens, increases transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and fails to adequately protect nerve endings. Cosmetic products for sensitive skin must
become the norm. Since sensitive skin affects all skin types, it is necessary to offer skincare formulas that will support and restore the skin barrier function, resulting in healthier skin. Emulium® Dermolea MB - hereafter, the
natural O/W emulsifier - is the mildest, skin- friendly natural O/W emulsifier in Gattefossé’s range. Thanks to its carefully selected composition of plant lipids, it helps reducing stress (ex vivo) and brings a long-term soothing effect (in vivo) to the skin. Due to its high skin tolerance, it helps
creating a moisturizing and protective base that provides support to the first barrier of the skin. It is perfectly adapted to all skin types and climates. Readily biodegradable, it makes it possible to create organically certified, vegan, and biodegradable formulations.
A unique lipid-rich composition Gattefossé’s R&D oleochemistry team has looked for molecules in the plant world that have the best affinity with the human skin’s surface lipids and the ability to restore its barrier function, for a soothed and balanced skin. The unique combination of plant lipids acts as a natural shield. Three plant waxes (jojoba, candelilla
and rice bran wax) are reacted to obtain a wax derivative with new active and sensory properties. Its chemical composition has been
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determined using an internal analysis (Figure 1). There are clear similarities between the wax
derivatives composition and the composition of skin’s surface lipids, as shown in the table above. A significant quantity of triterpenes was detected, and the following key sterols were identified: β-sitosterol and stigmasterol. They are known for their anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.1-3
Multifunctional and easy-to-use emulsifier The natural O/W emulsifier is capable of emulsifying up to 40% of oils, of all types. In the form of pellets, it is very easy to formulate and forms stable emulsions. The use of a gelling agent is recommended for better stability, particularly at high temperatures (Figure 2). It is compatible with all kinds of cosmetic ingredients: consistency agents, gelling agents,
Wax derivatives composition
Alcanes (C29-C33)
Aliphatic esters (C29-C64) Polyglycerol esters
Fatty acids/Fatty alcohols (C20-C32) Sterols/Triterpenes
50-60% 10%
1-2% 3-5% 25%
active ingredients (at a pH between 3.5 and 9), organic and inorganic UV filters, pigments, electrolytes, alcohol, glycols and preservatives. It can therefore be used in a wide range of
applications, from sprayable to thick textures: skin care, sun care, colour cosmetics, hair care and scalp care. Especially designed for sensitive skin, it makes it possible to formulate organically certified, vegan and readily biodegradable formulations. The natural O/W emulsifier also brings a light sensoriality to all kinds of cosmetic products. Emulsions are glossy, easy to spread and leave a low residual film, not greasy, and a smooth and comfortable after-feel.
Reduced skin stress An ex vivo test has been performed to evaluate the efficacy of a formula containing the natural O/W emulsifier on IL-α secretion on D-squames
Skin’s surface lipids Squalene (C30)
Wax esters (C26-46)
Free fatty acids (C12-30) Cholesterol
www.personalcaremagazine.com Figure 1: Composition of wax derivatives from the natural O/W emulsifier and comparison with skin’s surface lipids
April 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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