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UPCYCLED INGREDIENTS PICTURES OF IMPROVEMENT


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Before


After 8 weeks of Eosidin Figure 1: Skin improvement after eight weeks of application of Eosidin


ingredients. Our upcycling journeys are built on the fundamentals of responsible sourcing and transparency in creating mild yet highly effective ingredients. A strong example is the active ingredient


Eosidin® (INCI: Propanediol (and) Water (and) Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract), an extract of unripe green Citrus unshiu rich in synephrine and hesperidin. These molecules play a major role in regulating immunomodulation and decreasing hypersensitivity. Through Clariant’s joint partnership with Biospectrum, the Citrus unshiu cultivation and extraction process have been designed to reduce waste, limit the environmental impact, and be non-food competitive. Skin sensitivity is an issue for 60% of the


global population, and with exposure to pollution on the rise, we were looking to develop a product that would strengthen the skin barrier function and, in turn, calm atopic-prone skin and hypersensitivity. In Korea, Citrus unshiu is one of the most popular fruits in winter. On Jeju Island, a UNESCO Heritage site, at


least 10% of immature citrus unshiu fruits are thrown away by farmers to boost tree growth and increase the yield. Through our partnership with Biospectrum, these unripe fruits are now valorized to avoid waste and increase by- product use.


The unripe fruits are collected and used to


create the raw material, ensuring an upcycling process. The supply network provides local farmers with a new opportunity to supplement their income and improve living standards. The resulting active ingredient is the first solution to protect the skin from indoor pollution. It has won several awards from the cosmetics industry for its sustainable sourcing and its performance in


D0-ETHIENCE PROTECT


helping the skin recover and decrease irritation. The efficacy of the product was demonstrated


through a clinical evaluation conducted on 24 Asian volunteers suffering from atopic-prone skin, who applied a formulation with 2% Eosidin twice per day for 8 weeks. At the end of the study, their skin hydration was increased by 64% and their transepidermal water loss (TEWL), which corresponds to water evaporation, decreased by 33%. In addition, their atopic-prone skin level


was reduced by 50% and itchiness by 68%. The skin aspect was visibly improved, as shown in Figure 1. Eosidin has received a lot of interest as a solution for targeting sensitive skin, and is being adopted for use in a large variety of products dedicated to hydrating, detoxifying or preventing premature skin ageing.


For consumers While the past year has seen the need to protect skin barrier health become established among consumers, Clariant has been ahead in supporting formulators with a further innovative active ingredient targeted at this area. It is created from the upcycling of Brazil nut press cake, a residue left over from the production of Brazil nut oil, a widely used ingredient in cosmetics, and which is usually discarded despite containing molecules of interest for the skin. Access to the press cake has come through


a long-standing link to Beraca, now a Clariant Group company. The leading provider of natural ingredients ethically sourced from the Amazon Rainforest and other Brazilian biomes, is well respected within the cosmetics industry for its sustainable sourcing and social and economic development of local communities.


D7-ETHIENCE PROTECT D35-ETHIENCE PROTECT Brazil nuts play an important role in the


economy of the Amazon region. They are handpicked by local communities in the North of Brazil and are crushed to extract the oil intended for the cosmetic industry. Now, the remaining press cake is valorized to create Ethience® Protect (INCI: Glycerin (and) Water (and) Bertholletia Excelsa Seed Extract) before being sent back as fertilizer. Its development has brought new commercial


value to this co-product, creating an active rich in polyphenols that reinforces the three layers of the skin barrier by stimulating the synthesis and transport or lipids and by stimulating keratinocytes’ growth and differentiation. By maintaining a strong skin structure, it protects and hydrates the skin and reduces redness. This skincare care ingredient perfectly embodies the idea of natural balance: a responsibly sourced Brazil nut extract upgraded with cutting-edge science that helps to preserve both the skin’s barrier function and the rainforest’s socio-biodiversity. This upcycling of residues supports the circular economy concept where nothing is wasted – in this case the whole fruit is put to good use, in the cosmetics industry and on agricultural fields - and the resulting sustainable active has extraordinary effects on the skin’s own natural cycles. Ethience Protect acts as a barrier function


balancer that quickly relieves symptoms like dehydration and redness, whether they stem from shaving or mask wearing. It does so by supporting the intricate pathways that lead to a healthier lipid layer, stratum corneum and epidermis, and has performed remarkably in our tests on volunteers with compromised skin. Thanks to its triple mode of action, skin


hydration is maintained and irritation reactions are lowered, as was demonstrated through two clinical studies with men and women having compromised skins. For the 13 men who daily shaved and presented visible signs of skin damage such as redness, a formula containing 1% Ethience Protect achieved +28% hydration and -8% redness after 35 days. For 14 Caucasian women with skin damage on


the face due to mask wearing, a formula with 1% Ethience Protect achieved a boost of +29% skin hydration after 7 days and +52% after 35 days. The skin’s aspects are visibly improved, as shown in Figure 2 and Figure 3.


Figure 2: Visible skin improvements on men shaving daily www.personalcaremagazine.com


Hydration and skin wellness Clariant’s ‘zero waste’ approach to answering trends for better hydration and maintaining skin


April 2023 PERSONAL CARE


Before


After 8 weeks of Eosidin


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