MARINE INGREDIENTS


Marine saccharides: recovering ageing skin


Dr. Juan Pablo De la Roche, Pilar Águila, Arancha B. Guzmán - Microalgae Solutions ABSTRACT


Marine saccharides are bioactive metabolites with extraordinary multifunctional properties for skin care. Marine supra-organisms, such as epilithic holobionts, resist extreme conditions of desiccation, high UV radiation and hypersaline conditions thanks to these marvelous molecules. This article describes the richness and diversity of marine saccharides obtained by Phycosphere Biodynamic® technology, a novel patented blue biotechnology. These bioactive molecules have an extraordinary effect on the restoration of epidermal and dermal structure and function.


Skin is an extraordinary self-organized organ capable of maintain the body homeostasis thanks of a plethora mechanism of defenses face to intrinsic ageing, considered as a natural process; or premature ageing due to extrinsic factors such as xenobiotic substances from pollution or overexposure to UV radiation. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) damage


cellular components, leading to decreases skin antioxidant defences and ultimately to cellular ageing.1


Exacerbated ROS production


induces transcription factors that trigger the expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and prevents the expression of procollagen I.2 Natural cosmetic active ingredients


provide antioxidant and procollagen precursor molecules that help the skin to restore its balance by boosting its natural defences. This reduces the impact of external and internal factors that affect the cumulative changes of skin ageing, such as the deterioration of skin structure, skin barrier function and, consequently, the modification of the external appearance of the skin (wrinkles, thinning and unevenness of the skin). Marine ecosystems can inspire us to


create disruptive, sustainable, and highly effective cosmetic actives. Marine organisms use osmoprotective mechanisms to cope with environmental stressors and to maintain cellular osmotic balance, being saccharides one of the main molecules involved in these processes.


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Why are marine saccharides of interest? Saccharides (also carbohydrates) represent the largest proportion of marine biomass. They occur in marine macroalgae and phytoplankton (also microalgae) and its associate microbiota. It can represent around 50% of the biomass dry weight of land plants,3


and 61% of total


primary organic carbon mass on earth.4 Marine organisms use saccharides as


carbon source, and they are located in their intracellular energy-compartment compounds as well as forming part of their structural cell wall components,5


extracellular polymeric substances.6


or secrete them as The


differences between terrestrial and marine carbohydrates originate in the variety of


carbohydrate structures in their backbone as well as various modifications in response to marine environment adaptation.7 Oceans contain a higher concentration of


sulfate allowing for distinct sulfation patterns of the carbohydrates.8


Thanks to the anionic


properties of marine saccharides, especially through sulfation, algae presumably are resistant many extrinsic exposome factors such as UV radiation, xenobiotics (i.e.heavy metals),extreme temperature and pH and intrinsic ones such as desiccation, osmotic stress and enzymatic degradation.9 Phytoplankton holobionts are


supraorganims (like a microecosystem) composed by phytoplankton cells and the bacteria from its microbiota. They build a fascinating microecosystem where take place a dynamic exchange of valuable metabolites, essential for survival of phytoplankton and microbiota.10-11


Exopolysaccharides (EPs) and


other saccharides are the main constituent, representing around 65% in phytoplankton holobionts. EPs constitute a physical barrier


Figure 1: Saccharides from the marine environment


protecting cells from harmful agents and environmental constraints and serve in different physiological processes including cell communication, cell adhesion, cell interaction, and biofilm formation. The protective capacity of phytoplankton and marine bacteria saccharides has been reported also in the environment, where diatoms delay the degradation of materials through the secretion of EPs that allows


April 2023 PERSONAL CARE


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