110 SCALP CARE
Upcycled patchouli for active scalp care
Romain Reynaud, Yohan Rolland, Bénédicte Sennelier-Portet, Amandine Scandolera, Marie Meunier, Emilie Chapuis, Carole Lambert – Givaudan Active Beauty
Pogostemon cablin (patchouli) is highly prized for use in perfumery due to its woody and earthy scent with tobacco inflexions and camphor facets. To develop Patchoul’Up™, hereafter the patchouli leaf active, Givaudan Active Beauty employed clean extraction processes on patchouli leaves that had already been distillated to extract essential oils for the fragrance industry. The distillated leaves are dried and re-valorised
(‘upcycled’), and subcritical water extraction (SWE) is employed to induce selective fractionation of the active compounds oligosaccharides and proteoglycans. SWE is a process that augments the extraction potency of water. At the subcritical state, the water’s
physicochemical parameters are modified to give a higher solubility power and apolarity, delivering a unique profile and a higher yield.
100% integrated, traceable and durable The patchouli leaves for the patchouli leaf active are sourced sustainably from the island of Sulawesi in Indonesia, where Givaudan has a well-established and long-standing network of growers. Our teams have been working with producers and local suppliers on the islands since 2013 to collect these aromatic leaves responsibly for the extraction of essential oils. By upcycling the waste product (distillated
leaves), we have been able to create a new, valuable and efficacious product from this emblematic plant with real-world applications for sufferers of dry and flaky scalps.
Restoring sebum production, skin barrier function and hydration Our biological tests established that the patchouli leaf active is able to fight in vitro and ex vivo all the causes of white flakes and dry scalp conditions: reduction of the anarchic migration of keratinocytes, improvement of the exfoliation on scalp having thick stratum corneum, increase of the sebum production and improvement of hydration.
Sebum levels To determine the impact on sebum production, human sebocyte cell lines were cultured in vitro with the patchouli leaf active at 1% for seven days and the number of lipids measured by fluorescence. The patchouli leaf
600000 x 9.3%*** 400000
active triggered an increase of sebocyte lipid production at a very significant intensity: +39% compared to the lipogenic mix.
Skin barrier function/hydration On the epidermis, the cells of the stratum granulosum contain keratohyalin granules rich in profilaggrine. This protein is processed into filaggrin during differentiation and degraded by the enzyme caspase-14 into free amino acids, which help to generate the natural moisturising factors (NMFs) that maintain epidermal hydration. We monitored the behaviour of these markers
(keratohyalin, filaggrin and caspase-14) ex vivo on a dry skin model (a human-reconstructed epidermis kept for 48 hours under low
+39%***
200000
0 Untreated Figure 1: Dry flakes - a vicious circle with impact on microbiome diversity PERSONAL CARE April 2023
Lipogenic mix Patchoul'Up™ 1% + lipogenic mix
Student's t-test:***p<0.01 Figure 2: The patchouli leaf active rebalances the sebum production
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Lipids by Biodipy® probe fluorescence intensity per number of cells
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