LIFESTYLE COSMETICS
Bittersweet complex reverses an imbalanced gene expression in atopic skin The study’s objective was to show that bittersweet complex can reverse imbalanced gene expression in atopic skin, when focusing on genes associated with barrier function, inflammation, lipid metabolism, and hypersensitivity. In the experiment, a 3D skin model of atopic
skin was subjected to bittersweet complex, and a transcriptomic analysis was performed on 93 epidermal gene targets, all related to atopic dermatitis and sensitive skin.14
Changes
in gene expression were monitored by real-time quantitative polymerase chain reaction (RT- qPCR) using TaqMan Low Density Arrays and compared to a model of normal skin. Of the 93 genes screened, 27 are presented
here. These genes showed significant differences in gene expression in the atopic skin model (beige dots), of up to 2,000-fold compared to the normal skin model (grey dots). The addition of 0.01% bittersweet complex to the culture medium inversely modulated their expression (green dots), shifting it back to levels of healthy skin. Thus, the bittersweet complex is active and functional in vitro. On a gene expression level, it reverses
alterations seen in atopic skin, with a broad impact on genes that restore epidermal integrity, reduce inflammation, and alleviate sensory discomfort. The bittersweet complex therefore addresses the major symptoms of sensitive skin, including barrier function, inflammatory response, skin lipid metabolism, and hypersensitivity (Figure 3).
Bittersweet complex regenerates the skin barrier and protects from irritation This study measured the capacity of the bittersweet complex to regenerate a compromised epidermal barrier and its capacity to protect skin from irritation. In a placebo- controlled, double blinded study, a reduced epidermal barrier and skin irritation were
REGENERATION OF BARRIER FUNCTION A
100 80 60 40 20 0
0 Irritation Phase Regeneration Phase
-10% -18%*
-16%*
7 8 Days
9 11 14
2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0
Untreated n.s. -34% -48% CCL2 - Small Inducible Cytokine A2
10 5 0
7.8x **
1.0x
0.2x **
63
CCL2 is involved in skin inflammation and upregulated in sensitive skin. 'Bittersweet complex' reduces its expression level
FA2H-Fatty Acid 2 Hydroxylase
2 1
0
1.8x **
1.0x
0.3x *
■ Level of gene expression in normal skin (set to 1) ■ Imbalanced levels of gene expression in atopic skin (x-fold changes)
■ Rebalanced levels of gene expression in atopic skin after 'Bittersweet complex' treatment
FA2H is involved in skin lipid synthesis and responsible for strengthing the skin barrier. in atopic skin, its expression is downregulated, which can be reversed by 'Bittersweet complex'
Figure 3: The bittersweet complex rebalances sensitive skin-related gene expression. The radar plot shows gene expressions in normal skin (gray dots) as baseline level: fold-change = 1. Gene expression after induction of atopic dermatitis (beige dots), and gene expression in atopic skin + bittersweet complex (green dots). Genes are grouped according to function in skin (for in depth information of individual genes see [
www.genenames.org]. N = 3; Mean. Student’s t-test, atopic skin vs. normal skin; atopic skin + bittersweet complex vs. atopic skin; * = p < 0.05; ** = p < 0.01)
induced by treating the inner arms of healthy volunteers with an aggressive detergent (SDS = sodium dodecyl sulphate). Regeneration of barrier function was monitored by following trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). Protection from irritation was monitored by measuring skin redness with a colorimeter. The study concluded that the addition
of bittersweet complex to a simple base formulation is effective, acting quickly on major symptoms of sensitive skin. The bittersweet complex regenerates barrier function and protects skin from irritation (Figure 4).
PROTECTION FROM IRRITATION B
*
The bittersweet complex eases symptoms of sensitive skin & improves the quality of life In a clinical study, a base cream formulation with bittersweet complex was tested for its ability to ease sensitive skin symptoms like dryness, redness, and itching. The study also investigated whether improvements in sensitive skin symptoms do have an impact on the quality of life of affected people. The study included only volunteers with
sensitive skin. Each volunteer identified its own individual problem zone (size and location of sensitive skin) and applied a cream with 2% bittersweet complex to the selected area, twice daily over the next 14 days. Improvements in sensitive skin symptoms
Placebo 2% Bittersweet complex
Figure 4: The bittersweet complex regenerates the skin barrier and protects from irritation. (A) 20 volunteers washed their inner arms with SDS for 7 days, thereby disrupting the skin barrier (increased TEWL in irritation phase). To evaluate the regenerative properties of bittersweet complex upon irritation, the skin was treated with a test cream containing 2% bittersweet complex or a placebo, and regeneration of TEWL was monitored for another 7 days. With the bittersweet complex, regeneration was faster and stronger. (B) To evaluate the preventive and protective properties of bittersweet complex against irritation, the volunteers applied the test creams one hour before SDS washing. After 7 days, the skin became irritated (increased redness), which was prevented to a great extent by the bittersweet complex. N = 20; Mean + SEM. Student’s t-test versus untreated; * = p < 0.05
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were objectively measured using grading scales. Subjective evaluations of product efficiency and changes in quality of life were rated by answering a questionnaire. The clinical study revealed that treatment with a bittersweet complex cream on self-selected areas improved symptoms of sensitive skin – this effect is confirmed by a clinical assessment and self-observation (questionnaire) (Figure 5). Furthermore, improvements in sensitive
skin parameters correlate well with quality- of-life sensations, emphasizing that sensitive skin problems are not confined to physical symptoms of skin health or skin esthetics alone, but also impact the mental status and overall wellbeing of an individual. The effectiveness of the bittersweet complex is based on cumulative data from face, body, hands, and arms – this highlights the broad range of possible skin care applications for the bittersweet complex (Figure 6).
April 2023 PERSONAL CARE
Increase in TEWL (%)
Increase in Redness
X-fold gene expression
X-fold gene expression
Normal Skin Atopic Skin
Atopic Skin+ 'Bittersweet complex'
Normal Skin Atopic Skin
Atopic Skin+ 'Bittersweet complex'
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