FORMULATING FOR MILDNESS
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Food-upcycled emulsifiers for clean beauty
Guglielmo Bifulco, Francesco Rastrelli, Gianbattista Rastrelli – Kalichem
The skincare industry keeps changing in light of the growing trends of eco-friendliness and consumer interest in social responsibility. The ethical sourcing of natural ingredients plays a relevant role in boosting the sustainability and cleanliness of beauty products. These consumer needs go with the goal of
improving skin care products effectiveness, safety and mildness to meet the multi-faceted functional targets required by an increasingly diversified users base and the need of complying with the new trends of ‘skinimalism’.
Olive oil fatty acids: the innovation core Olive oil and its fatty acids fully address these needs. Besides being an icon of the modern Mediterranean lifestyle and diet, olive oil represents a historical landmark in cosmetics industry. A key component of the most ancient soaps developed by the mankind (Aleppo, Nablus and Marseille soaps), as well as a vital ingredient of the beauty routine in the Greco- Roman era, this Mediterranean liquid gold represents the ideal base for the formulation of mild, sustainable and versatile personal care products, thanks to its unsaponifiable fraction and, above all, its fatty acids composition. Olive oil fatty acids, in fact, are made of
approximately 80% of unsaturated fatty acids, mainly oleic acid and linoleic acid. Oleic acid is among the most frequently occurring fatty acids found on the skin hydrolipidic film and sebum, with proven features in increasing the delivery of specific active ingredients by modulating skin permeability. It has proven activity as pharmaceutical delivery system thanks to its fluid and flexible structure easily melted to skin surface, along with skin redness reduction properties. Linoleic acid is known as one of the most
relevant building block for skin ceramides, with objectified anti-inflammatory and skin lightening features. Not only does the combination of these unsaturated fats objectify olive oil unique beneficial biological actions exerted on skin barrier restoring, it also explains the unique sensorial profile that emulsifiers and surfactants based on olive oil fatty acids show on the skin in terms of emollience, nourishment, soft, velvety and silicone-like texture. Kalichem’s Olivoil specialities are patented
emulsifiers and surfactants obtained from olives upcycled from food industry, where
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the above-described fatty acids are condensed with vegetable derived polypeptides, amino-acids or sugars, to form original macro-molecules with unique technical, sensorial and functional profiles.
Olivoil emulsifiers Olivoil specialties include a family of patented emulsifiers, approved by Cosmos and Natrue, whose main references are: ■ Olivoil Glutamate Emulsifier G-PF (EU INCI: Sodium Olivoyl Glutamate made up of fatty acids from olive and sugar beet derived glutamic acid). ISO16128 natural origin content = 100%. ■ Olivoil Avenate Emulsifier (EU INCI: Potassium Olivoyl Hydrolyzed Oat Protein, made up of olive fatty acids functionalized with oat derived polypeptides). ISO16128 natural origin content = >90% Both lipo-aminoacid/polypeptides
components are associated with vegetable derived lipid waxes of vegetable origin - derived from sustainable palm oil in the case of the Avenate emulsifier, and 100% palm- free in the case of the Glutamate emulsifier - to form self-emulsifying bases capable of structuring emulsions of different nature and incorporating from low to high quantities of oily phase (up to a maximum of 50%).
The emulsions formed by both
references are oil-in-water lamellar liquid crystal systems, containing small sized oily phase droplets (in average <2 µm for emulsions loaded with overall 25-30% of oily phase), boasting a peculiar dermo-compatibility profile and promoting a consistent skin barrier restoring action, a ‘second skin’ effect together with a unique, silicon-like texture. Depending on the emulsifiers concentration
of use and surrounding formulation excipients - specifically vegetable polymers like xanthan gum or cellulose derivatives as well as consistency factors - their structured lamellar systems enable to support the development of both hyper-fluid/sprayable emulsions and creams with high viscosity loaded with minerals, pigments and sunscreen filters.
Tests: skin barrier restoring and mildness Both Potassium Olivoyl Hydrolyzed Oat Protein (POHOP) and Sodium Olivoyl Glutamate (SOG) were proven to promote a restorative action on the skin barrier. The aim of the studies carried out was to evaluate and compare the irritant effect on the skin of both molecules following a single application using an occlusive patch test and a trans-epidermal water loss assessment. Twenty healthy
April 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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