114 UPCYCLED INGREDIENTS
Harnessing the power of upcycled waste
Flavia Igreja, Julie Droux - Clariant
Upcycled ingredients are catching on as a go-to solution for brands focused on delivering more responsible beauty. The notion of reusing waste or discarded by-products from cosmetic- destined plants or food production to create higher value, high-quality new personal care ingredients, is exciting and significant for those looking closely at their formulations to improve sustainability. Particularly when sourcing and efficacy have been prioritized within their development, such ingredients can tick multiple boxes occupying the industry and its consumers. Nowadays, there is a need to keep pace
with reducing environmental impact, providing greater transparency, and the emerging push for circular beauty practices when creating appealing, effective products that fit the well- established preference for milder skin care and scalp care. Here, upcycled ingredients are an attractive option for formulations, as sustainable functional raw materials that perform well and contribute to zero waste cosmetics and the circular economy. Their use can support brands in pursuing the
Sustainable Development Goal of responsible consumption and production (SDG 17). Meanwhile, consumers can follow their desires for a deeper, more respectful connection with nature through the products they choose and the brands they support.
PERSONAL CARE April 2023
Clariant’s approach up-close These evolutions in the industry’s focus and demands have been fundamental to Clariant’s approach to developing ingredients sourced from upcycled processes. Since launching its first upcycled ingredient in 2017, Clariant Actives and Natural Origins business now offers a whole range, spanning several functions including active ingredients and emollients. Research and a good understanding of
skincare and potential sources for upcycled ingredients have contributed to this achievement. Yet, importantly, it has also strengthened its business partnerships and those with local communities to improve sourcing; expanding its access to waste or byproducts from natural materials, and to advanced technological processes that enable it to be both creative and scientific in exploring opportunities, and in upgrading residues still rich in highly potent molecules. Delivering high efficacy in areas relevant
to beauty trends, and having strong clinical evidence proving the consumer benefits, is always a focus. It is behind every new innovation, and sharing information on the pathways and results is what the industry values from us. Yet in finding the best raw materials, the
‘waste products’ or extracts to achieve this, having a strong, sustainable background is very
important. Having the creativity to identify new opportunities, responsible sourcing, market relevance, and demonstrable efficacy come together, it is where we take a lead in providing upcycled solutions for the personal care industry as a whole.
Benefits at the source To create its current upcycled portfolio of active ingredients, oils and butters, and scrubs, Clariant has turned to waste products generated from plants and other naturals which would normally be thrown away by the cosmetics industry, and also to waste and by-products from food and edible oil production supply chains. Sourcing locations stretch from Asia to the Mediterranean to Brazil. The raw materials are then upgraded by
Clariant’s development experts to create valuable novel ingredients that feature high- potency molecules, suitable for mild formulations and for a wide range of formats including solids. There is the practical side of upcycling,
efficiently reducing the impact on the planet by minimizing the extraction of natural resources and reducing landfill waste. Plus there is a definite feel-good element in adapting or repurposing materials that would otherwise have been discarded to increase their value as high-performing, natural and sustainably sourced
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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