70 LIFESTYLE COSMETICS
capable of inducing autophagy under nutrient supplementation, we aimed on the quantification of ATP-producing mitochondria to see a beneficial effect. This is especially important for ageing skin where nutrition as well as autophagy are low. Under normal conditions cells exhibited
a prominent juxtanuclear Golgi apparatus stained in green (Figure 1, left). In starvation condition, autophagy was induced as can be seen by the reduction of Golgi vesicles (Figure 1, middle). Addition of 1% pumpkin seed extract activated autophagy as well, however, the amount of healthy and active mitochondria increased (magenta, Figure 1, right). Quantification of this active mitochondrial
network revealed a concentration dependent increase with increasing pumpkin seed extract concentration (Figure 2). While naturally induced autophagy consumed 40 % of the mitochondria, pumpkin seed extract could even increase the number of mitochondria. In the in vivo study, panellists applied an
emulsion with 0% (placebo) or 3% pumpkin seed extract twice daily to the face. Measured parameters clearly showed, among others, an improved skin barrier, skin hydration and reduction in desquamation.9
The volunteers
reported structural changes to their skin, with enhanced radiance and skin homogeneity, less wrinkles in the crow’s feet area and overall satisfaction with their skin appearance, which influenced their entire well-being and self-esteem.
Conclusion The study shows that by increasing the cell’s ability to start autophagy and increase the energy available for terminal differentiation of keratinocytes, the skin’s appearance can be sustainably improved. Since there is communication between the epidermis and dermis, a fitter epidermis also results in a strengthened dermis. This is visible, for example, in the reduced wrinkles in the crow‘s feet area. However, weak performance of the epidermis can also lead to a latent inflammatory condition called ‘inflammageing’. The resulting skin redness can be
effectively reduced by using Reforcyl-Aion. More difficult skin conditions, such as enlarged pores or spots and discolouration of the skin can also be improved with this holistic approach. It is therefore worthwhile to support the skin in efficiently obtaining the energy needed for terminal differentiation.
References 1. Sreedhar A, Aguilera-Aguirre L, Singh KK. Mitochondria in skin health, aging, and disease. Cell Death Dis. 2020, 11: 444
2. Koster MI. Making an epidermis. Ann. N. Y. Acad. Sci. 2009, 1170: 7-10
3. Liu B, Zhu F, Xia X, Park E, Hu Y. A tale of terminal differentiation: IKKalpha, the master keratinocyte regulator. Cell Cycle. 2009, 8: 527-531
4. Xiaoyun X, Chaofei H, Weiqi Z, Chen C, Lixia L, Queping L et al. Possible Involvement of F1F0-ATP synthase and Intracellular ATP in
PERSONAL CARE April 2023 Mean + SEM; n=4 *= p<0.05 **= p<0.01 150 * ** 100 P= 0.10 50 0 Induction of autophagy
Figure 2: Autophagy decreases the number of active mitochondria. This effect is reversed with increasing concentrations of pumpkin seed extract
D0 D56 Untreated Control ■ Placebo ■ REFORCYL-AION 0.1% ■ REFORCYL-AION 1% ■
PC
Figure 3: Visible refinement of skin texture and wrinkles. Application of pumpkin seed extract for 56 days reduces skin redness, improves skin tone and age spots and decreases wrinkles in the crow’s feet area
Keratinocyte Differentiation in normal skin and skin lesions. Sci. Rep. 2017, 7: 42672
5. Koenig U, Robenek H, Barresi C, Brandstetter M, Resch GP, Gröger M et al. Cell death induced autophagy contributes to terminal differentiation of skin and skin appendages. Autophagy. 2020, 16: 932-945
6. Murase D, Kusaka-Kikushima A, Hachiya A, Fullenkamp R, Stepp A, Imai A et al. Autophagy Declines with Premature Skin Aging resulting in Dynamic Alterations in Skin
Pigmentation and Epidermal Differentiation. Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2020, 21
7. Sil P, Wong SW, Martinez J. More Than Skin Deep: Autophagy Is Vital for Skin Barrier Function. Front. Immunol. 2018, 9: 1376
8. Climate Partner.
https://fpm.climatepartner. com/tracking/12934-2002-1001/en
9. Besic Gyenge E, Hettwer S, Suter B, Obermayer B. Genderless cosmetics with gender-specific efficacy. Personal Care. 2020
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Relative to initial condition (%)
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