118 ANTI-AGEING


Active ingredient for smiling beauty


Giulia Fattorini, Stefania Zanzottera – Roelmi HPC


The viability of skin cells is a highly significant factor in cosmetics. Skin ageing and the resulting blemishes are known to be related with a decline of energy, which can typically be measured on the basis of the amount of adenosine triphosphate (ATP) produced by mitochondria. In fact, when skin cells lose their vigour, a loss


of vitality makes for dull and tired complexion; as a result, ageing signs are highlighted and expression lines appear. To remedy the problem of cell ageing, it is therefore necessary to formulate compounds able to stimulate the viability of skin cells, enhancing cellular energy.


The basis for youthful skin complexion According to the American Institute of Stress report, about 33% of people report extreme stress levels, with 77% of them reporting it has adverse effects on their personal health; 73% reporting downturns in psychological well-being, and 48% suffering from sleep deprivation. At a global level, 91% Australians feeling


stress about multiple aspects in life, while about 450,000 Britons report that stress makes them feel ill. Also, 86% of workers in China report heightened stress levels. Hence, people are seeking out multiple stress coping mechanisms, including spending on stress and fatigue relieving personal care products and cosmetics.1 Cosmetic market is always seeking for


compounds able to positively modulate the natural decay. In fact, the global anti-fatigue cosmetics market size was valued at $13.9 million in 2018 and is expected to grow at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 4.5% from 2019 to 2025.2 Consumers are increasingly aware of the link


between lifestyle and skin health. In turn, brands are appealing to consumers by emphasizing an ability to care for skin that has been negatively impacted by lifestyle-related stressors.3


They


have an intense desire for energizing, recharging and youth-activating cosmetic products. This consumer need is translated by the


development of energy claimed formulas containing ATP promoters, recharging ingredients, fatigue fighting or powering products, and many more.


The key to skin energy is mitochondrial activation Mitochondria are small organelles contained within each cell of body responsible for the production of ATP (energy) and play a key role


PERSONAL CARE April 2023


in skin functions, and their damage increases with age. Known as biochemical powerhouses, they have many fundamental functions reach far beyond bioenergetics and providing metabolites for building macromolecules. Mitochondria catabolize nutrients to produce


energy, generate biosynthetic precursors for macromolecules, and compartmentalize metabolites for the maintenance of redox homeostasis.4


Mitochondrial biogenesis is


activated by numerous different signals in conditions of cellular stress or in response to environmental stimuli, such as aerobic exercise. There is an increasing evidence that mitochondrial dysfunction and oxidative stress are key features in all ageing tissues, including skin. This is directly linked to skin ageing phenotypes: wrinkle formation, hair greying and loss, uneven pigmentation and decreased wound healing ability. The loss of barrier function during skin ageing increases susceptibility to infection and affects wound healing.5


Cell energizer boosting smiling beauty It is in this context that Roelmi HPC innovation laboratories have developed a biotechnological active ingredient for fueling the skin with youthful vigour: Ener-GY plus (INCI: Citrus


Limon Fruit Extract, Glyceryl Glucoside, Glycerin, Potassium Sorbate), hereafter known as the tested ingredient. It is a microbiota-friendly cell energizer,


designed to optimize mitochondrial activity. Developed by enzymatic technology, where the best of scientific method and nature richness join for extraordinary results. Only upcycled biologically active waters rich in fruit oligo- elements are involved, to respect planetary resources. Thanks to its specific efficacy in supporting


mitochondrial biochemical pathways, the ingredient provides positive conditions for metabolism and trophic processes in cells by stimulating sluggish cell vitality. It concurs to increase the ATP amount in


the cell system, modulating positively and significantly the cell energizing activity. As a result, it performs an overall beneficial


effect on skin ecosystem, decreasing the cellular senescence by promoting a high cellular vitality and responsiveness. The active ingredient concurs to prevent the signs of skin fatigue thanks to a promotion of a youthful complexion improving skin elasticity, firmness, moisturization and radiance. The ingredient is China-compliant and is


COSMOS-approved. www.personalcaremagazine.com


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