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LIFESTYLE COSMETICS


Radiance unleashed with hectorite tech


Silke Valentin-Burzynski, Jens Müller - Elementis


The skin glow trend has taken the beauty industry by storm. Consumers are no longer content with simply having clear, matte skin, they are seeking products that give them a radiant, luminous complexion. Glowing skin is a sign of health and vitality, and no wonder it is universally flattering.


Whether labeled as dolphin skin, glass skin,


glazed-donut skin or the next hot term, all these multi-functional claims and cross-category products are required to improve the skin condition of the consumer and ultimately blend skin care and colour cosmetic seamlessly. So, what is the secret to getting that coveted glow? There are several aspects to consider on the way to radiant-looking skin. The key to achieving glowing skin is to focus


on both skincare and makeup products that work to nourish and hydrate the skin, while also repairing the extracellular matrix of the skin for a long-term effect. It is important to follow a solid skin care


routine to support the skin’s inherent restorative power. Thorough cleansing helps to slough off dead skin cells and unclog pores, which can give your skin a more radiant appearance. Especially consumers with sensitive skin are looking for formulations providing in-depth yet gentle cleansing in order to maintain the natural pH condition of the skin. An intact and effective barrier to water loss


is mandatory to lock in moisture in the skin thus preventing ageing and loss of elasticity due to slowed-down cell proliferation and communication processes. Therefore, the usage of active skin care products including skin moisturizers has a major impact on a healthy skin, glowing from the inside. Choosing skin care products that promote important elements of skin glow is of essence. Attributes like an even skin tone and complexion, a dewy and moisturized skin are essential, dull and flaky skin is a no-go. Last but not least, applying sunscreen to the


skin helps to prevent first signs of fatigue skin right where they start. UV light is known to harm the skin by creating reactive oxygen species (ROS), causing inflammation and premature skin aging. Sunscreen products should provide a long-lasting UV protection, a good water resistance and a pleasant skin feel.


Detoxification power of hectorite Elementis’ Hectorite clay is a natural multi- talented ingredient that enables formulators to create not only products with outstanding


www.personalcaremagazine.com


textures and extremely diverse sensorial properties, but also to develop solutions for full range of skin care and colour cosmetics needs. Across the eras of human history, clays have


played a fundamental role in health and well- being. There are indications that Homo erectus and Homo neanderthalensis used different types of mud to cure wounds, soothe irritations, and clean the skin. More than 5,000 years ago in India, clay was used in facial and body masks as a skin treatment according to Ayurvedic tradition. It was popular in ancient Egypt too; Cleopatra used clay on her face to draw out impurities. Over time, it became a staple in Roman and


Greek bathhouses, eventually making it all the way to modern high-performance cosmetics. Even without modern tests and analysis, the benefits of clay were easily perceived. Without knowing what exactly happens, users benefited from a unique mode of action for centuries. Yet why not use any mud or clay? The answer


is simple. Today‘s savvy consumers are looking for stunning, shiny and luxurious textures, nothing that comes easy to most mineral based products. Only the highest quality minerals will provide key deliverables of a modern formula: Light in color, luxurious sensory, stable and robust formulations and most important for the improvement of the skin condition, high cleansing ability and toxin absorbance. The electric charge created between the clay


layers and on the edge of the particles makes clays adsorb and absorb heavy and radioactive metals, free radicals, sebum, pollutants, toxins and other unwanted products of metabolic activity, which can then be washed off from the skin. This is particularly important to improve the skin’s condition, reduce impurities and feature a deep cleansing and detoxifying effects. For the cleansing and detoxifying


performance of a clay, the cationic exchange capacity (CEC) poses as a key indicator. The CEC describes the number of cations a clay can hold, or in other words, its total negative charge. The higher the CEC, the more cations the clay can hold and release again onto the skin. The clay is taking up unwanted components on the skin’s surface and exchanges them for nourishing minerals like sodium, calcium or magnesium. Elementis’ hectorite clay products belong to the smectite group of clays known to have the highest CEC values among the clays.1 The methylene blue method was used


to determine the CEC values of two different hectorite grades and competitive materials (Figure 1). Compared to competitive synthetic and natural sodium magnesium silicates, the hectorite clays showed significantly higher CEC values, with more than 55% higher CEC in its peak. Hectorite is an exceptionally pure smectite


clay that builds a honeycomb network (Figure 2) to control rheology and deliver additive in


April 2023 PERSONAL CARE


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