132 EMULSIFIERS
A natural alternative for gel-cream textures
Caroline Recardo – Alchemy Ingredients
Innovative textures are the driving force for many new skincare launches. In a recent survey, cosmetic formulators rated ‘textures’ as the most interesting topic, ahead of ‘sustainability’ and ‘natural’.1 Consumers are tending towards lighter,
less oily feeling creams and gels for the face, demonstrated by the huge increase in the serums category, which now accounts for over 30% of skincare products launched in 2021 in the UK.2 Traditionally these lighter creams and
serums were based on synthetic polymers and silicones, however there is now a demand for more sustainable, biodegradable products based on natural ingredients. The challenge is that some of these more natural alternatives do not have the sensory quality and formulation stability that the synthetics do. Comments vary and are subjective but
common complaints include stickiness, stringiness, pilling, lumpy texture, too thin or not stable. There is therefore a real market need for an ingredient that combines the sensory quantity and skin feel required for a premium product with the biodegradable and sustainable properties required by natural and eco-conscious brands.
Emulsifier-thickener blends The most common type of emulsifier-thickener is that based on polyacrylamide, which acts as an instant water thickener. When combined with an oil and emulsifier such as a liquid ethoxylate, the system will instantly form thickened emulsions without the need for vigorous mixing or heating. There are many of these on the market and
there is no doubt they are very useful tools in a formulator’s toolkit. However, polyacrylamide has come under the spotlight many times during its cosmetic history due to low levels of acrylamide detected in it. As acrylamide is highly toxic this is a
concern, but the ingredient is still permitted for use and remains listed without restrictions. Due to the water-soluble and largely non- biodegradable nature of polyacrylamides, most of the material used in cosmetics ultimately ends up in the oceans and rivers where it may degrade to acrylamides. While the amount is low and not expected
to be harmful, it may be better in the long term to investigate fully biodegradable and natural, vegetable-based alternatives as a substitute.
PERSONAL CARE April 2023
they are derived naturally from vegetable sources, have high functionality and good emulsification power, and are available with different HLB (hydrophilic–lipophilic balance) values. The disadvantage is they are predominantly viscous liquids, making them difficult to combine with natural thickeners, which are usually powders. Sucrose esters, fatty acid esters and anionic
powdered emulsifiers have the advantage of being in a naturally-powdered form and can therefore be combined easily with a powdered natural thickener. When looking at the thickener component, there are many candidates available. Natural gums and resins, such as those used in the food industry, are numerous and highly functional and there are many to choose from. The main challenge is to produce a texture that is sophisticated enough for the cosmetic industry and can be used as a credible alternative to synthetics without compromising on performance. Suggested materials are konjac gum,
What are the natural alternatives? The main challenge in developing alternatives to the synthetic emulsifier-thickeners is to develop an all-in-one ingredient that contains both a natural emulsifier together with a natural thickener. Candidates for the natural emulsifier
component could be a polyglycerol ester, saponin, sucrose ester or other powdered emulsifier; perhaps one used in food based on fatty acids combined with an anion such as lactylate. The advantages of polyglycerol esters are
xanthan gum, carrageenan, cellulose gum, sclerotium gum, alginate, tara gum, locust bean gum and guar gum. Each of these has a particular characteristic texture and rheology and could potentially be used in a blend of this type. However, it is favourable to have the
following properties when used in an emulsifier-thickener: non pilling, non sticky, smooth texture, easily hydrated in water and able to stabilise emulsions. This narrows the choice considerably and a blend of several of these options together could be a better solution.
Anionic emulsifier causes repulsion between droplets
Particles coat surface of droplet (Pickering emulsion)
Starch gel network Polysaccharide gel network
Figure 1: Internal structure of an Instathix oil-in-gel emulsion
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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