88 MULTIFUNCTIONALS ■ Before application ■ After application Skin comfort +5.6 pts* +3.1 pts* Skin suppleness +3.1 pts* +3.3 pts* 0
Lactic acid vs physiological serum at D0
Skin quality Skin radiance
Figure 7: Evolution of the items of the self-assessment *p<0.0001 Results of the self-assessment show that the
cream containing the natural O/W emulsifier improve the moisturized aspect of the skin, skin softness, smooth aspect of the skin, skin radiance, skin suppleness, skin quality and skin comfort (Figure 7). In addition, a self-assesment questionnaire
proves that the cream containing the natural O/W emulsifier has been very well appreciated by the volunteers. In conclusion, the formula containing the natural O/W emulsifier brings a long-term moisturization to the skin that lasts up to 48 hours. It improves the moisturized aspect of the
skin, its softness, smooth aspect, radiance, suppleness, but also the overall skin quality and comfort and it has been very well appreciated by the volunteers.
Long-term soothing effect (Poland) A stinging test consists in evaluating the cutaneous reactivity after application of a lactic acid solution to nasolabial folds that generate stinging sensations. At D0 and D28, a 10% lactic acid solution was applied versus physiological serum.
The intensity of prickling/heating/burning sensations felt by the subject was evaluated at D0 and D28 with the same scale: immediately and after 30 seconds, two minutes and five minutes by scoring the sensations from 0 (no
70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
64* 52* 54* 50* 49* 48*
Figure 8: Evolution of the total score after 28 days of application of the cream *p<0.001
sensation) to 3 (important sensation). Then the overall score was calculated as
below: Overall score = Σscores (lactic acid) - Σscores
(physiological serum) at D0 and D28 The non-evolution of the score obtained with the physiological serum at D0 and D28 was checked. Self-assessments and clinical scoring have also been performed and panelists filled a satisfaction questionnaire. Twenty-three Caucasian female volunteers
have been included in this study, with phototypes I to III, from 19 to 69 years old (mean age 41 years old) and with stinger-positive status. The cream has been very well tolerated at the cutaneous level (test under dermatological control). After 28 days of use, in comparison with the initial values obtained on D0, there is a statistically significant decrease in the global cutaneous reactivity score of 47% in average (Figure 8). After 28 days of use, there is also a significant
improvement of the moisturized aspect of the skin, its softness, smooth aspect, radiance/healthy glow, complexion evenness and the overall skin quality as demonstrated by the clinical scoring performed by a dermatologist (Figure 9). The exact same improvement of all criteria is also noted with the self-assessment scoring by the volunteers (Figure 10). Another use test questionnaire filled by the panellists shows that the cream containing
100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
Moisturized aspect
softness Skin
Smooth aspect
healthy glow radiance/ Skin
Complexion evenness
Figure 9: Evolution of items of the clinical scoring *p<0.0001 PERSONAL CARE April 2023 quality Skin 95* 74* 62* 55* 56* 66* 65*
the natural O/W emulsifier MB has been very well appreciated once again.
Conclusion An O/W emulsifier of choice for all types of applications: skin care, hair care, sun care and make-up, the natural O/W emulsifier brings not only functional benefits but also extensively demonstrated efficacy. Due to its support to the skin barrier function,
the natural O/W emulsifier offers a shield to external aggressions and delivers long-lasting moisturization and soothing to the most sensitive skins.
PC
References 1. Beserra FP et al. From Inflammation to Cutaneous Repair: Topical Application of Lupeol Improves Skin Wound Healing in Rats by Modulating the Cytokine Levels, NF-κB, Ki-67, Growth Factor Expression, and Distribution of Collagen Fibers. Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2020, 21 (14), 4952 2. Babu S, Jayaraman S. An update on
β-sitosterol: A potential herbal nutraceutical for diabetic management. Biomedicine & Pharmacotherapy. 131, 2022
3 Antwi AO et al. Stigmasterol Alleviates Cutaneous Allergic Responses in Rodents. Biomed. Res. Int. 2018
4. Pappas A. A Look at Lipids: Profiles Across Ethnicity and Age, A Review. Cosmetics & Toiletries. May 2021
Lactic acid vs physiological serum at D28
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Skin softness +3.5 pts* +3.2 pts* +3.5 pts* Smooth aspect
6 5 4 3 2 1
5.3 -47%* 2.8
Moisturized aspect
softness
Skin
Smooth aspect
healthy glow
radiance/
Skin
evenness Figure 10: Evolution of items of the self-assessment
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Skin
quality
Skin
% variation (D28/D0)
% variation (D28/D0)
Total score
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