ANTI-AGEING
The technology The enhancement of agricultural by-products through production technologies can give them a second life generating a wide range of compounds with high added value, suitable for different sectors, lowering environmental impacts and reducing industrial waste. This approach reduces the need for natural resources extending the final ingredient’s life cycle and at the same time, developing new innovation-oriented business opportunities. Roelmi HPC studied a groundbreaking enzymatic process with the preparation of a solution of glyceryl glucoside in upcycled biologically active waters derived from the fruit juice industry, giving better ability for skin energy. Glyceryl Glucoside is long-known as a molecule able to promote aquaporins and the correct operation of the skin as a barrier, as well as for its ability to stimulate cell viability. Upcycled biologically active waters,
used as a ‘clean’ solvent in the enzymatic process, contain trace elements which are selected from the group comprising zinc, copper, iron, manganese, sodium, potassium, calcium and magnesium. They are the result of the valorization of Mediterranean fruit by- products.
In vitro testing Several in vitro evaluation tests were performed to investigate the capability of the tested item to increase ATP content in
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CTR- Figure 1: ATP content
human skin keratinocytes and to influence the mitochondrial activation. ATP is often referred to as the ‘molecular unit of currency’ of intracellular energy transfer, so it can be considered a good biomarker for the cell energy status while mitochondria represent the main source of energy production. Initially, the evaluation was carried out
by determination of ATP amount after cell treatment with raw materials under study, comparing: untreated cell culture (CTR-), cell culture treated with glucose at 1% and cell
culture treated with the tested item. As a result, the active cosmetic ingredient
enhanced the increase of ATP amount in the cell system, by positively and significantly modulating the cell energizing activity. It showed a significant energizing activity, increasing ATP content (+38.3%) in human keratinocytes after 24 hours of contact, if compared to CTR- (Figure 1). Subsequently, the efficacy in activating the
mitochondrial metabolism and in enhancing cell energizing activity were evaluated by means of
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Glucose 1.0%
Ener-GY plus 1.0%
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April 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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