LIFESTYLE COSMETICS


Upcycled active for hair greying prevention


Katharina Kappler – Mibelle Biochemistry


Based on a sustainable upcycling process of a unique locally sourced mandarin from the Greek island of Chios, MelanoGray™ is an anti- hair greying essence that stimulates melanin synthesis and protects melanocytes from stress-induced malfunction. This unique active ingredient was shown to markedly reduce the quantity of grey hair in both men and women, even during times of psychoemotional stress when hair greying can be accelerated.


Hair greying Hair has a wide-ranging impact on our lives, far beyond its natural role of protection and thermoregulation. Hair and grey hair in particular can greatly influence one’s self- esteem and mood. The ‘50’ rule of thumb says that 50% of the population will have at least 50% grey hair by the age of 50 years. However, studies have shown that this is


more likely to be between 6% and 23% of the population, depending on ethnic/geographic origin and natural hair color, with men tending to grey significantly earlier than women.1 Hair greying, which also called canities, is defined as the progressive loss of natural hair pigmentation. The mixture of darker, normally pigmented


hair and increasingly lighter, less pigmented hair is perceived as progressive greying. While genetic factors play the most predominant role in hair greying, psychoemotional stress, and various diseases, as well as malnutrition and the use of alcohol and certain drugs have been linked to an increased likelihood of premature


greying. In addition, environmental factors – such as smoking, UV radiation, and pesticides – trigger the occurrence of grey hair.


Melanogenesis – the production of hair pigments The pigmentation of hair is the result of a complex interaction that takes place at the hair follicle between melanocytes, matrix keratinocytes, and dermal papilla fibroblasts. Hair pigmentation occurs only during the anagen phase, which is the growing phase, and


this can last from three to seven years. The hair pigments, called melanins,


are produced in a process which is called melanogenesis in organelles within melanocytes (melanosomes) before they are transferred to keratinocytes, resulting in pigmented hair shafts. From the two different melanin types, the black-brown eumelanin and the reddish-yellow pheomelanin, eumelanin determines how dark the hair is. The process of eumelanin synthesis can


be initiated by activation of the melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R), e.g. through the hormone α-MSH. The amino acid tyrosine serves as substrate for the synthesis of eumelanin, which is tightly regulated by a range of regulatory proteins and enzymes, including tyrosinase (TYR) and dopachrome tautomerase (DCT).


Anti-greying cosmetic active upcycled from aromatic waste To counteract hair greying, Mibelle Biochemistry has developed a new cosmetic active ingredient, which is based on an extract of organic mandarins that grow exclusively on the Greek island of Chios. Mandarins are orange fruits from the largest


www.personalcaremagazine.com Figure 1: Melanin synthesis


group of citrus plants and are particularly rich in essential oils and antioxidants such as phenolic acids, flavonoids, limonoids and carotenoids. On Chios, mandarins were introduced in the 13th century after colonization by the Genoese. The island of Chios, which is also known


April 2023 PERSONAL CARE


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