ANTI-AGEING
TABLE 1: PRODUCT INFORMATION FOR THE AOH ACTIVE INGREDIENT
Trade name Package Storage conditions
INCI name CAS No.
Repista
1 kg / 100 g (Liquid) Room temperature
Aza-Oxohypoxanthine, Sodium Hyaluroxide, Water
1403820-30-3
Recommended dosage 0.3% Usage
Skincare, makeup, body care, hair care
criteria were included: (1) Women in their 40s or 50s at the time of consent. (2) Those with wrinkles equivalent to wrinkle grades 1 to 3 at the corners of both eyes. (3) Those who could give written consent based on their own free will before the start of the study. (4) Those who could give consent for the use of only the test sample in the designated area.
Clinical trial study This clinical trial was conducted in Osaka, Japan, between 19 January and 25 March 2020. The test was a double-blind, placebo- controlled, split-face, left–right randomized trial. A total of 20 healthy Japanese women (age:41–58 years, average:48.4 ± 4.7 years) were enrolled in the study. The subjects were not pregnant; did not
habitually take topical medications, oral medications, or supplements; did not undergo hormone replacement therapy; did not have surgical procedures on the test site; and did not have experience in cosmetic medicine that would affect the test site. After washing their face twice in the morning and evening, the participants applied a lotion containing 0.1% AOH to one half of their face and a placebo lotion to the other half for eight weeks. Images of the participants’ left and right half-faces were captured using a VISIA Evolution facial imaging system by Canfield Scientific Inc. Stratum corneum moisture content and
TEWL: The stratum corneum moisture content of both cheeks was measured using a SKICON- 200EX. The TEWL was measured using a Cyclone Moisture Evaporation Meter AS-CT1. Measurements were performed at least
three times, and the average of three stable measurements was used. The stratum corneum water content at the beginning of the study and after eight weeks showed an increasing trend for both the AOH active ingredient lotion and the placebo lotion (Figure 4). After eight weeks, the stratum corneum
water content of the skin to which the AOH active ingredient lotion was applied had
INCI Name
Figure 3: Product appearance of the AOH active ingredient
increased more. The TEWL measurements at the beginning of the study and after eight weeks (Figure 5) in the placebo lotion application group showed a decreasing trend (p = 0.063), whereas the TEWL in the AOH active ingredient lotion application group showed a statistically significant decrease after eight weeks of application (p <0.005). These results indicate that the lotion
containing the AOH active ingredient had a moisturising function, as well as a barrier- function-improving or strengthening effect, compared with the placebo lotion. The comparison of stratum corneum water contents after eight weeks showed higher values in the AOH active ingredient lotion application group than those in the placebo group. A comparison of the TEWL values after eight weeks showed that the values in the AOH active ingredient lotion application group were lower than those in the placebo application group.4
Skin lightness RGB was converted to Lab Color using
TABLE 2: COMPOSITION OF THE CLINICAL TRIAL FORMULATION Product/Chemical Name
Water Repista
KELCOL CG LAX-T NIKKOL HCO-60
Water Aza-Oxohypoxanthine, Sodium Hyaluroxide, Water
Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate Methylparaben 1.3-butanediol
BG Xanthan gum PEG-60 Hydrogenated castor oil
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Composition (%) 84.2 10
0.4 5
0.2 0.2
HN N
N A
AHX O
N
N H
Figure 2: Structure of (a) AHX, (b) ICA, and (c) AOH
Photoshop software. The face parts were compared with photos taken at zero and eight weeks, the areas without subtle shine or shadows were selected and a square of identical size in the corresponding facial area (3 cm × 3 cm) was designated and the L* value (skin lightness) was measured. To correct for differences in light source
intensity depending on the frequency of the power supply, the L* value of each photograph was corrected based on the L* value of its white base. The relative L* values with the AOH active ingredient lotion and placebo lotion are shown in Figure 6, using a relative value of one at the beginning of the study. The L* value of the AOH active ingredient
lotion group increased significantly (p < 0.05) after eight weeks, while no statistical change was observed in the placebo lotion group. This indicates that application of the AOH active ingredient lotion increases skin lightness. The L* value after eight weeks in the AOH active ingredient lotion application and placebo lotion application groups were significantly increased. It was concluded that the AOH active ingredient is useful as a cosmetic ingredient to increase skin lightness.5
Safety evaluation of the AOH active ingredient AOH was considered likely to be safe because it is a natural organic compound that is found in very small amounts in edible plants. However, since AOH is a new cosmetic ingredient, we decided to conduct all necessary safety tests for the development of cosmetic ingredients. No animal studies were conducted to evaluate the safety of AOH, which was done using in vitro tests and human studies. The results are summarized in Table 3. No adverse reactions to AOH were observed
in any of the safety studies or in clinical trials, and AOH was judged to be a safe substance.6 As mentioned above, AOH is found in edible plants and has also been shown to be present in several foods. Thus, the AOH active ingredient is a safe and reliable cosmetic ingredient.
Conclusion The AOH active ingredient exhibits cell- activating effects on NHEK. A previous comprehensive analysis using DNA microarrays described its potential to act on a wide range of epidermal functions, including promoting epidermal turnover, differentiation, maturation, and metabolism of old skin cells. In the present study, after eight weeks of application, the
April 2023 PERSONAL CARE H2 N B ICA O N
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