134 EMULSIFIERS
TABLE 1: ACHIEVABLE TEXTURES WITH INSTATHIX Texture
Light serum (dropper bottle) Light lotion
Day moisturiser Hand cream
Rich night cream Face mask
body butter
Typical Viscosity
2.000-5.000cps 10.000-30.000cps 10.000-40.000cps 20.000-40.000cps 30.000-50.000cps 30.000-60.000cps
40.000-70.000cps
liquid at high shear, losing both its rigidity and elasticity. This gives the characteristic set gel
appearance in a jar or bottle, but can easily be pumped or scooped. Rheology graphs are shown in Figures 4 and 5. It is useful for a formulator to be able
to use an ingredient in different ways to create different textures, reducing inventory and therefore cost. One advantage of the emulsifier-thickener ingredient is that it is possible to create many different textures using a simple formula, most with it being the only emulsifier and thickener present in the formulation.
This is unusual as often several emulsifiers
and thickeners need to be used together to obtain the sensory properties required in a cream. With the emulsifier-thickener ingredient, most of the variation in viscosity, initial skinfeel and afterfeel come from the level of the ingredient and the combination and number of oils and butters in the formulation. A summary of typical use levels and viscosities for different types of products are shown in Table 1.
Serums One of the challenges of making a serum is achieving a lower viscosity while obtaining good stability. Because the emulsifier-
TABLE 2: TYPICAL SERUM FORMULA Phase Ingredients
INCI A Instathix
Mokaté® Kalahari Melon Seed Oil
Olive Squalane CCT
Water Glycerine B
Euxyl® PE9010 Orange Secrets
Fragrance ‘Orange Blossom and Ginger’
FD & C Yellow 5
Properties: Viscosity: 3000 – 8000 CPs Suppliers: 1. Alchemy Ingredients
Xanthan Gum, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Tapioca Starch, Algin
Citrullus vulgaris seed oil Squalane
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Aqua
Glycerine
Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract
Parfum CI19140
2. African Origin Oils 3. Schülke & Mayr 4. Gattefossé 5. Sozio
3 4
5
Level of Instathix (%)
1.5-2.5 2.0-3.5 2.5-3.5 3.0-4.0 3.5-4.0 3.5-4.0
3.5-4.0
Level of Oil (%) 2-5
5-10 10-15 10-20 15-25 5-15
20-30
thickener ingredient has an oil-in-gel internal structure, it enables oil droplets to remain suspended in the light gel, even at a low use level without creaming or separation. It is also beneficial to create a light texture that does not flow too much as it may be difficult to dispense and apply to skin with the fingertips. It is useful to bear in mind that this type of product may be used as part of a skincare regime and might be used underneath or on top of other products, so a light, compatible product needs to be produced which will not pill or ball up on the skin. A typical light serum formulation using the emulsifier-thickener ingredient is given in Table 2.
Light facial or body creams To incorporate a higher level of oil and greater viscosity than serums, a higher level of the emulsifier-thickener ingredient is used. This type of product could be packed in a tube, jar or pump bottle, and so should be shear thinning and easily dispensed through the pump or scooped out of a jar. The shear thinning nature of the emulsifier-
thickener ingredient formulations makes it ideal for this. At a level of 4%, the emulsifier- thickener ingredient will emulsify up to 16% of oil or butter. If a higher level of oil is required, a small amount of glyceryl stearate or fatty
Supplier % w/w 1 2 2.00
1.00 1.00
2.00
89.50 3.00
1.00 0.20
0.20 0.10
Other additives needed
None required None required
Optional: 2-5% Glyceryl Stearate >15% Oil = 2-5% Glyceryl Stearate >15% Oil = 2-5% Glyceryl Stearate 10-25% Kaolin
3-6% Glyceryl Stearate
2-5% Cetearyl Alcohol (Optional) Wax: 2-4%
alcohol will enable this. A typical body cream formulation is given in Table 3.
Rich day or night creams, hand creams and masks The emulsifier-thickener ingredient can also be used to create thicker, richer textures by increasing the amount of solid waxes, co-emulsifiers and solid emollients in the formulation. This means a higher level of oil can be incorporated leading to a more nourishing texture suitable for richer day creams, including those with SPF claims (with either mineral or organic sun filters). Addition of clays, exfoliating particles
and pigments can give an interesting visual and sensory effect for a mask formulation. An example of a hair styling putty is given in Table 4.
Surfactant formulations It is also possible to use the emulsifier- thickener ingredient as a thickener and emulsifier in some surfactant-based formulations. The presence of the anionic emulsifier in the emulsifier-thickener ingredient means it has good compatibility with anionic surfactants. Formulations will have a creamy
appearance and can incorporate a small amount of oil to give a moisturising product such as body wash.
TABLE 3: TYPICAL BODY CREAM FORMULATION Phase Ingredients
INCI A
Instathix CCT
IPM Tocopherol B Water
Glycerine Panthenol
C
Euxyl® PE9010 Hemp Tein Z
D & C Red 33 Sol
Fragrance ‘Lush Day Dream Clean’
Xanthan Gum, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Tapioca Starch, Algin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Isopropyl Myristate Tocopherol Aqua
Glycerine Panthenol
Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Hydrolyzed Hemp Seed Protein CI 17200
Parfum
Properties: Viscosity: 12,000 – 18,000 CPs Suppliers: 1. Alchemy Ingredients 2. Schülke & Mayr
3. Tri-K 4. Sozio
2 3
4 Supplier % w/w 1
4.00 4.00
4.00 0.50 82.35 3.00 0.20
1.00 0.50 0.10
0.35
PERSONAL CARE April 2023
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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