86 MULTIFUNCTIONALS


Direct emulsification - Hot process 70°C


70°C 2000-2500rpm 2


Dermolea MB +


Oil phase Emulium®


Figure 2: The natural O/W emulsifier process


treated or not with polluting particles: iron particles, urban particles and urban dust. IL-1α is a marker of inflammation secreted by corneocytes in the stratum corneum when the skin is exposed to inflammatory stress.


Protocol A cream containing 4% natural O/W emulsifier is applied or not on a skin biopsy. Polluting particles are then applied, and the skin biopsy is incubated for 2 hours at 37°C. Treated pieces are then cleansed with compresses and D-squames are collected. Finally, an ELISA test is performed to


measure IL-1α and enables to compare the effects of polluting particles versus the protective effect brought by the cream.


Principle of D-squame D-squames are transparent plastic disks previously covered with an adhesive substance (self-adhesive supports), applied and maintained a few seconds on the surface of the skin with a standardized weight. They make it possible to ‘stripe’, meaning collect the first epidermal layers including the stratum corneum, and thus to quantify the collected proteins.


Results Results showed a reduction of secretion of IL-α when skin is treated with the formula containing the natural O/W emulsifier (Figure 3). Applied preventively, the natural O/W emulsifier has a protective effect against


Iron


120 100 80 60 40 20 0


100 71 -29% 12 NT Iron


E. Dermolea MB + iron


Figure 3: Results of the ex vivo test PERSONAL CARE April 2023 www.personalcaremagazine.com


120 100 80 60 40 20 0


inflammatory stress induced by external agents: ■ Iron particles: -29% secretion of IL-α ■ Urban particles (1648a): -50% secretion of IL-α ■ Urban dust (1649b): -70% secretion of IL-α


Skin barrier function improved TEWL has been quantified using a Frantz cell device. Membranes are treated with a cream containing 4% natural O/W emulsifier during 24 hours to measure TEWL and thus determine the state of the skin barrier function. Mineral oil is used as a negative control


since it is totally occlusive, and an aqueous gel is used as a positive control as it does not have any occlusive properties (Figure 4). The natural O/W emulsifier in emulsion


reinforces the skin barrier function by reducing the transepidermal water loss without being fully occlusive.


For all skin types Every single skin is unique and requires special attention. Age, gender, origin, or lifestyle can influence the aspect and quality of the skin.4


ingredients according to its needs. This has been proven with three clinical tests in three different places around the world.


Immediate moisturizing effect (South Africa) A corneometry test has been performed to highlight the moisturizing effect of the natural O/W emulsifier at 4% in a simple emulsion versus an untreated area. Measurements have been performed 30 minutes and eight hours after a single application. Ten African female volunteers have been included in this study, with phototypes V and VI (50% of each prototype), from 24 to 41 years old (mean age 33 years old) and with dry skin on the forearm (inner side, electric capacitance ≤ 50 a.u.). After a single application, there is a


significant gain of moisturization (Figure 5). It was proven that the formula containing the natural O/W emulsifier brings immediate moisturization to the skin that lasts up to eight hours after application.


But


all skin types can be sensitive, and they have the same need for protection against external aggressions. The hydrolipidic film being the first barrier, it is necessary to preserve it whatever the characteristics of the skin. The natural O/W emulsifier helps the skin to


recover a functional barrier function. Protected, the skin is less stressed by external aggressions, less reactive, more hydrated, more comfortable, and in the end, more beautiful. The skin is ready to receive specific active


Urban particles (1648a)


100 -50% 50 15 NT Part


E. Dermolea MB + iron


120 100 80 60 40 20 0


Long-term moisturization and 24-48 hours remanence (China) A natural and simple emulsion containing 4% natural O/W emulsifier was tested in Asia. Skin hydration measurements were performed before the first application, after 28 days, and then 24 hours, 48 hours after the last application to assess the skin moisture remanence. Self-assessments have also been performed and the panellists were asked to fill a satisfaction questionnaire.


Urban particles (1648b)


100 -70% 50 13 NT Part


E. Dermolea MB + iron


Water phase O/W emulsion


3 4


Once homogeneous, slowly add the oil phase to the heated aqueous phase under high shear (using rotor stator or a dispersing mixer)


Maintain high shear mixing until it is perfectly homogeneous (approx. 10-20 minutes)


Cool under mixing


level: 2-4%


Use 1


Add Emulium Dermolea® MB to the oil phase and heat to 70°C


Secretion IL1a (%) vs iron


Secretion IL1a (%) vs urban particules


Secretion IL1a (%) vs urban particules


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