74 ANTI-AGEING 0 weeks ■ 8 weeks ■ 190 162.5 135 107.5 80 Placebo Repista®
Figure 4: Water content of stratum corneum at the beginning of the study and after eight weeks
stratum corneum water content increased by approximately 30% and the TEWL value decreased by approximately 15%. The clinical trial results provide evidence supporting the DNA microarray results. A safety evaluation was conducted to
confirm that AOH in the active ingredient is safe for application to the human skin. No adverse effects were observed in any in vitro studies, and safety was confirmed. A previous in vitro eye irritation test also showed that there was no eye irritation. Mushroom and fermented mushroom
extracts are used as cosmetic ingredients. However, mushroom-originated compounds, such as AOH, have not been commercialized as cosmetic ingredients. Therefore, the AOH active ingredient is the world’s first mushroom- derived cosmetic ingredient to be identified. Evaluation of the efficacy of the AOH active ingredient on the skin is ongoing, and we are confident that it will provide additional interesting findings.
Acknowledgements We would like to express our sincere gratitude to the distinguished university Prof. Kawagishi of Shizuoka University, who guided us during the implementation and development of this research. We also thank Nikoderm Research Inc. (Osaka, Japan) for performing skin irritation, eye irritation, skin sensitization (DPRA and h-CLAT assays), and alternative phototoxicity tests in vitro as well as phototoxicity and photosensitization studies on human skin. We are also grateful to
110 105 100 95 90 85 80
Placebo 0 weeks ■ 8 weeks ■ 1.8 *
1.35 0.9
0.45 0.9
-0.45 -0.9
-1.35 -1.8
Repista®
Figure 5: TEWL value at the beginning of the study and after eight weeks; p < 0.05 vs. zero weeks
Placebo
0 weeks ■ 8 weeks ■ *
Repista®
Figure 6: Relative L* value of the participants at zero and eight weeks; *: p < 0.05
TABLE 3: COMPARATIVE RESULTS OF VARIOUS AOH SAFETY TESTS Safty test
Ames test In vitro skin irritation
In vitro eye irritation (SkinEthicTM HCE method) In vitro phototoxicity (Skinethic Skin Irritation) In vitro skin sensitization (DPRA)
In vitro skin sensitization (KeratinoSensTM In vitro skin sensitization (h-CLAT)
Human skin patch test (10% Repista)
Human phototoxicity and photosensitization tests (10% Repista) Repeat insult patch test (RIPT) (10% Repista)
DRC Co., Ltd (Osaka, Japan), BoZo Research Center Inc. (Kanagawa, Japan), and the Food and Drug Safety Center, Hatano Research Institute (Tokyo, Japan) for conducting the human patch test, Ames test, and in vitro skin sensitization test (KeratinoSensTM), respectively. We would like to thank Editage (
www.editage.com) for English language editing.
) INCI Name
OECD TG471 OECD TG439 OECD TG492 OECD TG432 OECD TG442C OECD TG442D OECD TG442E
– –
– Composition (%)
No mutagenicity6 No irritation6 No irritation
No phototoxicity6 No sensitization6 No sensitization7 No sensitization7
Negative6 (Skin
irritation index: 3.7) Negative7 Negative7
oxohypoxanthine as a cosmetic ingredient. Cosmetics. 8(3), 60 (2021)
4. Aoshima H et al. Clinical evaluation of topical lotion containing 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine on skin barrier function against water loss. Cosmetics. 8(3), 83 (2021)
PC
References 1. Choi J-H et al. The source of “fairy rings”: 2-azahypoxanthine and its metabolite found in a novel purine metabolic pathway in plants. Angew. Chem. Int. Ed. 53, 1552 (2014)
2. Kawagishi H et al. Are fairy chemicals a new family of plant hormones? Proc. Jpn. Acad. Ser. B. 95, 29 (2019)
3. Aoshima H et al. The potential of 2-aza-8-
5. Aoshima H et al. Potential of Fairy Chemicals as Functional Cosmetic Ingredients: Effect of 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine (AOH) on skin lightness. Inter. J. Medic. Mushroom. 24 (9), 41 (2022)
6. Aoshima H et al. Safety evaluation of 2-aza- 8-oxohypoxanthine based on in vitro and human patch tests. Fundam. Toxicol. Sci. 7(5), 207 (2020)
7. Aoshima H et al. Safety evaluation of 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine by in vitro skin sensitization and human tests. Fundam. Toxicol. Sci. 8(4), 123 (2021)
Figure 7: Participant (Female, 42 years old) images at zero (before) and eight weeks (after) PERSONAL CARE April 2023
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Relative value of Stratum corneum water content (%)
Relative value of TEWL (%)
Skin clarity after 8 weeks (ΔL)
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