76 MULTIFUNCTIONALS
Why multifunctionals should be on your radar
Rune Daneels - Oleon Health and Beauty
We can safely say that today’s time-stretched and environmentally savvy consumer no longer wants to engage in extensive beauty routines, with lots of products and complicated processes and routines. Instead, they are focusing on solutions that offer multifunctional benefits – minimizing the time and effort it takes to look their best while offering an environmental boost in the process. This consumer demographic is consistently demanding more from their skincare and beauty products, and it is up to new product developers to acknowledge these requirements and drive innovation in the sector. Pared-down beauty is not only doing wonders for the skin but can make a real difference to consumer pockets while helping sustainability efforts across the board. The simpler approach to beauty is echoed
in Euromonitor International’s Voice of the Consumer Beauty Survey,1
which found that
some consumers now perceive beauty as looking healthy, being comfortable in their own skin, while embracing a more authentic approach to beauty and personal care regimes – including a ‘less is more’ attitude. Enabling multi-functionality from a product
manufacturing point of view requires cooperation and a systematic approach between brand owners, ingredient suppliers and research and development teams. The goal is to either rethink existing formulations; invest in developing new products, or line extensions that can effectively meet these consumer requirements.
Where did it all start? The first two-in-one shampoo was launched in the 1980s and proved to be an instant hit with female consumers. The development of these multifunctional personal care products can be put down to the coacervation phenomenon,2 which allowed a combination of cationic polymers and anionic surfactants or silicone emulsions to achieve the requisite level of multi-functionality in haircare products. This was effectively the start of a revolution
in the development of new combinations and multi-functionalities in beauty and personal care solutions. And now, as products, ingredients and packaging become more sophisticated, ingredient technology and formulation innovation must evolve if brand owners wish to remain competitive. It is predicted that this year, the following trends will drive growth in multifunctional
PERSONAL CARE April 2023 products.3 These include: the development of
finished cosmetic and personal care products with more than one consumer benefit; raw materials and ingredients with more than one function in any given beauty product formulation; cosmetics and personal care ingredients that impart different benefits in different formulations, and packaging that supports multi-functionality – a great starting point for your new product development journey.
Formulation challenges In this era of multifunctional beauty development, novel techniques to address formulation challenges are needed to enable emulsion stability, product customization and formulating with paraben-free preservatives.4,5 In terms of emulsion stability, combining
materials that are not easily compatible can be challenging, particularly when the resultant product is defined by its sensory, aesthetic, performance and application capabilities. The ultimate goal is to create a stable emulsion by overcoming the interfacial tension between the two phases. To make multifunctional products truly cost-effective with a ‘greener’ footprint we
should also investigate options that could reduce processing times, formulate products that can be cold processed or make use of cooler processing temperatures. We are seeing great momentum around technologies such as enzymatic esterification and bio-based processing techniques, and these are fast becoming de rigueur for the responsible and sustainable beauty and personal care brand owner and manufacturer.
Crossing the skin barrier While some of us tend to think of multi- functionality as products that only target topical skin issues, the conversation is becoming broader with strong associations being drawn between what we eat and drink and how it can affect skin health, target the effects of long term ageing and ensure health of the microbiome/ holobiont axis.6 Beauty companies are increasingly tapping
into growing scientific evidence that the health of our skin, hair, nail, and gut are interconnected and this is leading the way for nutrition- and nutricosmetic-focused products that can complement topical regimens to provide whole-body health benefits.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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