LIFESTYLE COSMETICS
reduced cell adhesion and detachment of melanocytes from the basal membrane, which in turn can lead to a decreased melanin production. Gene expression could be restored in
all cases by adding 1% Chios mandarin extract to the cells during the treatment with noradrenaline. Thus, by reducing the negative effects of noradrenaline-induced stress, this Chios mandarin extract could help to prevent or reverse the hair greying process.
Anti-greying effect The in vitro results suggested that Chios mandarin extract can reduce hair greying. Thus, the efficacy of the Chios mandarin extract- based active ingredient was analyzed in a randomized, placebo-controlled clinical study including 55 female and male volunteers with grey hair.
The study was performed in Spain during
the first wave of the COVID-19 pandemic in Europe in spring 2020. The timing of this study may have involved psychological stress for the volunteers due to the lockdown situation. A hair serum with 2% Chios mandarin active
was used daily for 120 days and the numbers of white (WH) and non-white (NWH) hair were calculated based on pictures taken with a TrichoScan microcamera. Whereas the proportion of grey hair further
increased in the placebo group, the treatment with the active ingredient led to a reduction of grey hair by 5% compared to the placebo group after 120 days of treatment. The ratio of non-white and white hair (NWH/WH), which indicates an anti-greying effect, was significantly increased by 21.6%. This effect was long-lasting, as the NWH/
WH ratio was still significantly increased in 77% of volunteers 30 days after the last application (day 150). Thus, treatment with 2% Chios mandarin extract-based active ingredient leads to a long-lasting significant reduction of grey hair, even during times of enormous stress, where hair greying could be accelerated.
Conclusion Derived from a unique locally sourced mandarin, MelanoGray is an attractive upcycling ingredient that stimulates melanin synthesis by different mechanisms, including increased production of eumelanin, enhanced melanocyte proliferation, and protection of melanocytes from stress-induced malfunction. The combination of these effects leads to a
long-lasting reduction of grey hair by prevention of hair greying and reversal of stress-induced hair greying.
References 1. Panhard S et al. Greying on the human hair: a world-wide survey revisiting the ‘50’ rule of thumb. British Journal of Dermatology. 167: 856 – 873 (2012)
2. Zhang B et al. Hyperactivation of sympathetic nerves drives depletion of melanocyte stem cells. Nature. 577: 676 – 681 (2020)
3. Rosenberg A et al. Quantitative mapping of human hair greying and reversal in relation to life stress. eLife. 10: e67437 (2021)
www.personalcaremagazine.com April 2023 PERSONAL CARE PC
53
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124 |
Page 125 |
Page 126 |
Page 127 |
Page 128 |
Page 129 |
Page 130 |
Page 131 |
Page 132 |
Page 133 |
Page 134 |
Page 135 |
Page 136 |
Page 137 |
Page 138 |
Page 139 |
Page 140 |
Page 141 |
Page 142 |
Page 143
