MARINE INGREDIENTS


and algae, among other natural sources. This compound is able to scavenge ROS caused by UVB, to increase antioxidant factors in HaCAT cells and also to increase procollagen I production turning it a high-efficacy ingredient for photoaging treatments.15 Other disaccharides that are less frequent, such as neoagarobiose, found in red algae, accomplish a dual function as anti-aging and whitening agents.18 ■ Polysaccharides are formed when ten or more sugar units are linked by glycosidic bonds. The most abundant polysaccharides found in algae are alginates, carrageenan and fucoidan, being bioactive molecules with cosmetic applications. Although the water absorption capacity of the holobiont polysaccharides is slower than other compounds like glycerin, the moisture retention has been proved to be higher, especially in green algae.14


Ground-breaking cosmetic active base-on marine saccharides to protect skin As we described in Personal Care magazine September 2022 issue,11


Osmocean


Phycoskin® (hereafter, the marine ingredient) is an original moisturizing and dermoprotective bioactive ingredient that reduce the impact of natural and premature ageing restoring the skin’s natural well-ageing process.


This marine ingredient is based on an


up-cycled raw material of epilithic holobiont extract. The biomass was produced by applying a blue biotechnology called Phycosphere Biodynamic Technology. This technology biomimics the extreme


conditions in which this holobiont lives. By controlling the growth conditions, this patented technology modulates the biochemical profile by enhancing the production of marine saccharides. Based on saccharides biochemical and in vitro studies, we


composition, 11


postulate a mechanism of action on skin by the marine ingredient (Figure 2). Skin deterioration due to chronological


and premature aging shows structural and functional alterations of the epidermis and dermis: a reduction in cell volume occurs, affecting the barrier function of the skin and increasing TEWL. In addition, protein destabilization occurs, triggering collagen and elastin degradation and decrease. Marine active ingredient acts through a


A


500 450 400 350 300 250 200 150 100 50 0


(Glicerol + NaCl) C+ C- NaCl +47% +30% * *


57


Figure 2: Mechanism of action of Osmocean Phycoskin


OSM 1% + NaCl


OSM 2% + NaCl


Figure 3: Osmolitic protection. Cell volume changes using Osmocean PSK 2%. Error bars (Standard deviation). * p<0.05 versus C


double Rejuv-Detox complex: ■ Osmo-Rejuv: these are two groups of osmolytic saccharides. One of them helps maintain cell turgor, thanks to osmoregulatory processes and others stimulate procollagen I


B


synthesis, a precursor of collagen, helping to restructure the dermal matrix and conferring firmness to the skin. ■ Osmo-Detox: thanks to antioxidant saccharides that fight ROS caused by UV radiation and pollution, and osmolyte saccharides that stabilize proteins, preserving existing collagen and elastin fibers. Following preliminary results, previously we confirmed the postulated


published,11


Figure 4: Visual changes of ephitelial cell area in (A) control treatment (NaCl) and (B) Osmocean PSK 2% + Na Cl


www.personalcaremagazine.com


hypothesis by in vitro studies, as detailed below. Osmoregulation effect A comparative study was conducted on human epithelial cells to evaluate the effect of the ingredient as an osmoprotector against salt stress due to sodium chloride. The study revealed that the marine ingredient at 2% helps to evoke the loss of 47% of the cell


April 2023 PERSONAL CARE


Cell volume area (µm2


)


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