116 UPCYCLED INGREDIENTS
wellness is exemplified in its creation of three co-products from the Açai berry. The fruit of the Açai palm, cultivated in Brazil for its fruits, heart of palm, leaves and trunk wood, is valued for its high content of antioxidants, amino and essential fatty acids, and multiple vitamins and minerals. Clariant ensures the Açai fruits are responsibly
harvested in the forest in Brazil. All parts of the fruit are then valorized, avoiding any waste, and creating extract, oil and scrub for cosmetic applications. Açai extract is obtained from the whole açai
fruit. After this, the fruit is depulped and from this pulp is obtained açai oil, which presents skin hydration and revitalizing properties. As a last step, açai pulp scrub is produced from the press cake that remains after obtaining the oil. The scrub offers a gentle alternative to hard skin exfoliation. Fruits are mainly valued in food production
processes as pulp for enhancing juices, ice creams, sweets, and so on. Yet the seeds are often perceived as by-products, as waste, and discarded. Our Açai products really embrace the opportunity to provide this waste with value, and create ingredients with cosmetic benefits able to take on modern care needs. Similarly, within edible oil processing there
are by-products rich in valuable molecules that shouldn’t be wasted but instead can be upcycled to find a new life as high-performing skin or hair care ingredients with functions suited to today’s trends and challenges, such as in the well-ageing space.
For well-ageing skin The approach of using edible oil by-products to benefit the challenges of ageing skin, like loss of collagen, elasticity and radiance, is seen in upcycled active ingredient Plantasens Olive Active HP (INCI: Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables). It harnesses the antioxidant and anti-irritation powers of vitamins in olive oil also present in the unsaponifiable fractions, considered as waste by-products, and removed during the refining process. Clariant valorizes this waste into a 100% bio-
based ingredient that scavenges reactive oxygen species (ROS), and prevents the formation of advanced glycation end products (AGEs). Its ability to protect the cells against UV-
*: p=0.002 **: p=0.001
100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
Control 1% Figure 3: Visible skin improvements on women wearing protective mask daily
induced glycation is highlighted in Figure 4, where UV-induced AGEs formation is reduced by 61%. The active is also known to inhibit collagen crosslinking, actively protecting structural tissues and maintaining skin homeostasis. Its success in improving firmness is clinically
proven, showing a +17% improvement in skin firmness after 56 days in a test group of 21 volunteers aged from 46 to 61, where the product was applied twice per day on the forearm for two months. In keeping with well-ageing demands for effective mild treatment, the ‘glycation preventer’ offers formulators a fully bio-based option for protecting skin structure and contributing to improving skin’s firmness.
Seeding new ideas The increasing preference for natural ingredients and ethical benefits in cosmetics offers us the opportunity to be creative and continues to open our minds to more and more upcycling possibilities. Our olive-based products have traditionally been natural emollients. Now, we’ve followed an upcycling direction to create an active too, that’s being well-received by the industry. We have been inspired to also create upcycled emollients, using the seeds discarded from fruit pulps to achieve oils and butters which formulators can use for natural, upcycled, and efficacy benefits. Clariant now purchases responsibly sourced passion fruit seeds, previously thrown away by the food processing industry, and valorizes them in order to extract the oil. Rich in linoleic
UV (-) ■ UV +) ■ 0.56 -45%* -61%** 0.52 0.48 0.44
Plantasens Olive Active HP 5%
Figure 4: Prevention of UV-induced AGEs. 21 volunteers aged from 46 to 61, product applied twice per day on the forearm for two months
PERSONAL CARE April 2023 0.4 Placebo Figure 5: Oiliness control assessment
www.personalcaremagazine.com Passion Fruit Oil 18.0%*
and palmitic acids, its Passion Fruit Oil (INCI: Passiflora edulis seed oil) provides dry and velvety feel to the skin, as well as giving medium spreadability for formulations. It is used in haircare for its sebum reduction power in oily scalps, as seen in the clinical data in Figure 5. Another example is Cupuaçu Butter (INCI:
Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter) which is extracted from the seeds of Amazon-grown Theobroma grandiflorum tree fruits used as pulp by the food industry. Its richness in oleic and stearic acids promotes softness to the skin and allows it to recover natural moisture and elasticity. Furthermore, Berascrub Cupuaçu is obtained from the press cake, offering natural particles to promote and stimulate skin exfoliation.
Minimizing waste generation, sustainably Upcycled ingredients can fulfil a variety of functions and extend options for the cosmetics industry to consider their formulations when addressing their product footprint and environmental and social responsibilities and goals. To support brands and formulators,
Clariant has transparency at the core of its different approaches to developing market- relevant ingredients from upcycled processes. Responsible sourcing, partnerships and expertise in upgrading molecules of interest enable it to harness and pass on the efficacy and sustainability benefits of upcycled residues and by-products.
* Statistical significance p<0.05 compared with CONTROL D0-ETHIENCE PROTECT D7-ETHIENCE PROTECT D35-ETHIENCE PROTECT
PC
AGE content (ng/mg proteins)
Oiliness Coefficient
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