EMULSIFIERS
TABLE 4: TYPICAL THICK CREAM/MASK FORMULATION Phase Ingredients A
INCI
Shea Butter Cocoa Butter
Butyrospermum parkii (Shea) Butter Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter
Glyceryl Stearate Glyceryl Stearate Cetyl Alcohol
Cetyl Alcohol
Sweet Almond Oil Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Almond) Oil Citrullus Vulgaris Seed Oil Cannabis sativa Seed Oil
Mokaté® Kalahari Melon Seed Oil
B
Hempseed Oil White Clay Instathix
C Glycerine Water
Panthanol
A problem-solving ingredient One of the strengths of the synthetic emulsifier- thickeners is that they can be used to ‘rescue’ problem formulations that are unstable, have not reached the required viscosity or that need an enhanced level of emulsification. The emulsifier-thickener ingredient can be used as a natural replacement for this. It needs to be incorporated hot, so the unstable formulation should be reheated to 70°C and the emulsifier-thickener ingredient homogenised into it at a level of approximately 1-2%. Once stability has been assessed, the
emulsifier-thickener ingredient can be added in at the beginning of the process as part of the full formulation.
Claims It is expected that most brands will undertake their own claims substantiation on their formulated products, however some basic testing was carried out using a Corneometer. Eight volunteers used a cream on the forearm
D Fragrance ‘Mint’ Hemp Tein Z
Euxyl® PE9010 Kaolin
Xanthan Gum, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Tapioca Starch, Algin Glycerine Aqua
Panthanol Parfum
Hydrolyzed Cannabis Sativa Seed Extract
Keraplant NPNF Water, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydrolyzed Corn Protein
Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Properties: Viscosity: 90,000 – 130,000 CPs Suppliers: 1. African Origin Oils
2. Alchemy Ingredients 3. Tri-K 4. Schülke & Mayr
containing the emulsifier-thickener ingredient once a day for seven days. Moisture measurements were taken before use, 30 minutes after application, and seven days after application. There was a 20% increase in the moisture level of the skin 30 minutes after application and a 25% increase after one week of application.
The same cream was also given to the
volunteers to use on the face and a survey was given to the participants. Comments were very positive and included ‘Left my skin so soft’, ‘Really light feel’ and ‘Made my skin glow’. 96% of participants said that their skin felt more moisturised after using it.
Conclusion It is very difficult to replace synthetic emulsifier-thickeners in a formulation due to their convenience, ease of use and favourable rheology.
The emulsifier-thickener ingredient is a
credible alternative, giving a light, silky texture using all-natural components. The ingredient is Ecocert COSMOS-approved, vegan, globally compliant and gluten free.
References 1. Customer webinar poll carried out in April 2022 of 60 customers
2. Mintel PC 2 3 3
135
Supplier % w/w 3.00 1.50 2.50 2.50 4.00
1
2.00 2.00
20.00 3.50
10.00 45.60 0.20 0.20 1.00
www.personalcaremagazine.com
April 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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