44 LIFESTYLE COSMETICS With BENTONE® PLUS GLOW■ Without BENTONE® PLUS GLOW■ Phytosterols Glyceryl Oleate Hectorite Hemisqualane Grape Seed Oil Sunflower Oil Unsaponifiables Olive Oil Unsaponifiables
145 140 135 130 125 120 115 110 105 100
d 0.5
d 3
in vivo study days d 12
d 10
d 18
d 32 Figure 6: Unique active matrix of the hectorite skin glow gel
very easy and straightforward to work with. The gel can be incorporated at a recommended use level of 5% into the main oil of the formulation and mixed at high speed (approximately 5000 rpm) for 15 minutes to guarantee a proper formation of the clay network providing thickening, stability and skin moisturization. Besides the standard hot process, this product can also be used in cold process formulations and therefore provides formulators with increased formulation flexibility and more sustainable concepts. With the launch of the hectorite skin glow gel,
Elementis offers a proprietary and unique blend of well-known skin care actives with proven benefits. This new patent pending technology is a great opportunity to meet consumers’ needs of an ultimate solution for skin well-being and health. This ideal combination of organically modified nature-derived clay with ingredients pampering the skin has shown to unleash skin radiance and to take formulations to the next level.
References 1. Revil et al. Induced Polarization as a Tool to Assess Alteration in Geothermal Systems: A Review. Minerals. 2021; 11, 962. https://doi. org/10.3390/min11090962
2. Huang et al. Biological and Pharmacological Activities of Squalene and Related
6 5 4 3 2 1
0 Without
organically modified
hectorite-stick 1
With organically modified hectorite- stick 1
Without
organically modified
hectorite-stick 2
Figure 9: Anhydrous stick hardness and flexibility positively impacted by organically modified hectorite
PERSONAL CARE April 2023
Figure 10: in vitro SPF boosting and wash off resistance with organically modified hectorite. Sunscreens applied on HD6 PMMA plates, initial SPF reading, SPF reading after washing according to ISO and FDA guidelines
www.personalcaremagazine.com
With organically modified hectorite- stick 2
Figure 7: Increased moisturization over baseline (100%) with 5% hectorite glow gel in a W/O emulsion in a 30 day long in vivo study on the lower legs (4 subjects, both left and right leg), percentage change of GrayIndexT values from MoistureMap MM 100 readings (Courage & Khazaka). Emulsions were applied daily for 30 days. Readings were done after complete absorption of emulsions
Compounds: Potential Uses in Cosmetic Dermatology. Molecules. 2009, 14, 540-554; doi:10.3390/molecules14010540
3. McPhee et al. Deriving Renewable Squalane from Sugarcane. Cosmetics & Toiletries. 2014; Vol. 129, No. 6
4. Garavaglia et al. Grape Seed Oil Compounds: Biological and Chemical Actions for Health. Nutrition and Metabolic Insights. 2016; 9, 59-64
5. Sumaiyah et al. The effect of antioxidant of grapeseed oil as skin anti-ageing in nanoemulsion and emulsion preparations. Rasayan J. Chem. 2019; 12(3), 1185-1194.
http://dx.doi.org/10.31788/RJC.2019.1235337
6. McCusker et al. Healing fats of the skin: the structural and immunologic roles of the omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids. Clinics in Dermatology. 2010; Jul-Aug, 28(4), 440-51. doi: 10.1016/
j.clindermatol.2010.03.020
PC
7. Lin et al. Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. International Journal of Molecular Science. 2018; 19, 70. doi:10.3390/ ijms19010070
8. Xia et al. Biological Activities of Polyphenols from Grapes. International Journal of Molecular Science. 2010; 11, 622-646. doi:10.3390/ijms11020622
9. Poljsak et al. Vegetable Butters and Oils as Therapeutically and Cosmetically Active
Hardness (Force in gram to penetrate 5mm)■ Flexibility (mm) ■
140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0
Without
BENTONE® PLUS GLOW
With
BENTONE® PLUS GLOW
Figure 8: Pigmented formulation with/without 5% hectorite skin glow gel after 1 month at 50°C
Ingredients for Dermal Use: A Review of Clinical Studies. Frontiers in Pharmacology (Ethnopharmacology). 2022; Vol 13. https://
doi.org/10.3389/fphar.2022.868461
10. Final report of the amended safety assessment
of...Glyceryl Oleate etc. International Journal of Toxicology. 2004; 23 Suppl 2:55-94. doi: 10.1080/10915810490499064
Before washing ■ After washing ■
Sunscreen with organically modified hectorite
Sunscreen without organically modified hectorite
Relative values
% moisture increase over time
Mean SPF
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