ANTI-AGEING
Hydrophilic peptide for preserving beauty
Cristina Bonell, Marine Vincendet, Belén Aguirre, Gemma Mola, Raquel Delgado - Lubrizol Life Science
Younger generations are transforming the beauty industry. They are digital natives that continuously investigate cosmetics - their ingredients and their science - turning them to ‘skintellectual’ consumers. For example, there is increased chatter on social media about the mechanism of action leading to wrinkle formation. As a result, more consumers are aware that
repeated facial movements produced by daily expressions cause the contraction of the facial muscles, leading to an increased visibility of expression wrinkles. Indeed, there is some evidence to suggest that inhibiting this effect at an early stage may function as a preventative solution to slow down the signs of ageing. Until now, active ingredient solutions that
target the contraction of facial muscles like the hydrophilic peptide, Argireline® peptide, which was the first cosmetic peptide able to inhibit the facial muscular contraction by the destabilization of the SNARE complex, have focused on the reduction of visibility of wrinkles already formed. Therefore, we have created Argireline YOUth peptide, hereafter known as the new active ingredient, to meet the preventative ageing needs of younger consumers. This active ingredient contains the recognized
hydrophilic peptide in an enhanced delivery system that makes it highly suitable for the unique formulation requirements and usage habits of younger consumers. Indeed, the new active ingredient has proven efficacy in two oil- based formulations, one for makeup and one for skincare, targeting the areas of greatest concern among younger groups.
A
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-10 Placebo 2% new active ingredient
Figure 1: A. Variation (%) in the skin roughness parameter obtained after 28 days of product application (**p<0.01 versus initial time) versus placebo with a smile expression. Student’s t test was used after checking the normality distributions by a Shapiro-Wilk test. B. PRIMOS images of a volunteer smiling before and after 28 days of treatment with active ingredient
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layer is hydrophobic and disperses well in the oily system. The size of the micelles and affinity for both the peptide and the medium makes the inverse micelle delivery system ideal for the obtention of a transparent solution.
Clinical efficacy on volunteers of Caucasian and Latin American descent A clinical test was carried out on 65 male and female volunteers aged between 19 and 35 years old of Caucasian and Latin American descent. These volunteers were divided in two different groups, the active group applied a makeup foundation containing 2% of the new active ingredient daily, and the placebo group applied a foundation without any active ingredient. At initial time and after 28 days of treatment,
Development of the enhanced delivery system The development of the new peptide ingredient has leveraged the benefits of the LipoClearTM inverse micelle delivery system, which, on the one hand, helps to create transparent oily systems with a water soluble active, and on the other hand, improves the availability of the peptide. This desirable combination may be achieved thanks to the unique structure of the inverse micelles. The inner layer of the inverse micelles is
hydrophilic and has good affinity with the hydrophilic peptide, allowing an adequate loading of solubilized active molecules. The outer
0 days 28 days
the volunteers were asked to express their maximum smile in front of the camera to evaluate the skin roughness and wrinkle area on the crow’s feet while holding a smiling expression. Furthermore, the coefficient of wrinkles in the same area was evaluated but without any expressive emotion.
Improvement of wrinkles without losing smiles The skin roughness (Sa) and the area of wrinkles (%) of the crow’s feet zone were assessed by means of 3D microtopography imaging system based on fringe projection (PRIMOS). Both parameters were determined before and after 28 days of the treatment. A decrease in the skin roughness and wrinkle area parameter indicated an improvement in the appearance of expression wrinkles. As shown in Figure 1A, the results showed a
-6.8% **
statistically significant decrease of the roughness parameter by -6.8% on average after 28 days of treatment, with respect to initial time. As shown in the volunteer images at both times of the study, an improvement on the crow’s feet area during the smile expression can be appreciated (Figure 1B). Additionally, Figure 2A exposes the results
of wrinkle area on the crow’s feet during the smile expression, with respect to initial time. Volunteers that applied the active foundation showed a statistically significant decrease in wrinkles by -19.9% after 28 days of treatment. The images of a young male volunteer (Figure 2B) show how the visibility of the wrinkles in this area improved after the treatment, when keeping the same smile expression at both times of the study.
April 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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Variation in skin roughness (%)
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