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106 ANTI-AGEING


Dermohacking senescence with a lab-grown active


Clara Vigo, Elizabeth Escudero, David Manzano - Provital


With the recent movement towards a preventative one-health, new terms and trends are leading innovations in healthcare. Biohacking, for example, is a term that is getting more and more popular. It basically refers to the reasoning behind the health benefits one can achieve by employing certain changes in daily habits. It details how these little ‘hacks’ to our own physiology can affect our aging process, and how technology can make them feasible.1 The emerged success of such


concept in healthcare goes hand in hand with the unprecedented scientific advances that are occurring in the anti-ageing field, particularly with the discovery that the rate of ageing is controlled by genetic pathways and biochemical processes such as cellular senescence.2 As this relation between ageing and cellular


senescence becomes established in the scientific community, the beauty industry can better tap into the opportunities that the longevity era and the innovation-eager consumer offer. In this regard, Provital is taking the lead


in a new type of cosmetics that will leverage technology, science, and natural preferences to push the boundaries on efficacy and selectivity, while still supporting an environmentally friendly brand positioning: Dermohacking Cosmetics.


A lab-grown ingredient: Althaea rosea petal stem cells The new ingredient launched by Provital is sustainably obtained from lab-grown stem cells of the flower petals of Althaea rosea. This eco-responsible biotechnological obtention method allows the preservation of the flower’s environment in nature, a full traceability of the raw material, and a production process that consumes less water, thus providing this active ingredient with superlative ecological standards and enabling its vegan-compliance, COSMOS- approved and 100% natural origin (ISO16128).


An innovative mechanism of action: in vitro-proven senolytic activity Cellular senescence is a stress response to damaging inputs such as genotoxic or oxidative stress, telomere shortening, DNA injury or mitochondrial dysfunction, which results in a multiple phenotype consisting of irreversible growth arrest, resistance to apoptosis and the release of a cocktail of factors known as the


PERSONAL CARE April 2023


senescence associated secretory phenotype (SASP). Although it is a normal and healthy cellular


response in young tissues, the accumulation of senescent cells over time has deleterious consequences in some critical physiological processes.3,4 In fact, senescence is considered one of the most important hallmarks of ageing, and one of the reasons why human skin develops certain age-related alterations in elastic fibre morphology, facial wrinkles, and perceived age.5,6 It is not surprising then that cell senescence, and the inflammatory factors that follow it — the SASP — are widely studied in pharmacology as treatment targets. In the anti-ageing field, the strategies


followed when attempting to block the negative effects of senescent cells can be classified as senomorphic, when the objective is to supress the SASP phenotype, and senolytic, when the target is the selective elimination of senescent cells. Although senolysis is an emerging anti-


ageing pharmacological strategy, its use in the cosmetic field is still very limited. Yet the skin was one of the first organs in which senescent cells were identified,8


of senescent fibroblasts,9


and may contain up to 55% whose specific type


of SASP has shown unique features related to various skin ageing and homeostatic processes.10


ABSTRACT


Beauty consumers are paying more attention to ingredients than ever before. As value creation becomes a defining feature of the healthcare industry in general, innovative technologies bring lab-grown ingredients to a new level for the everyday more health-eager mature consumer. Arising from this surge of innovative cosmetics,


preventative healthcare, and the latest unprecedented scientific advances


in cell senescence, Provital is taking the lead in a new type of cosmetics that will push the boundaries on efficacy and sustainability in cosmetic


ingredients: Dermohacking cosmetics. Provital presents Altheostem™ as its first ‘dermohacker’, an Althaea rosea (hollyhock) flower stem cell active that has proven its ability to selectively eliminate skin cellular senescence. This senolytic, vegan-compliant, COSMOS- approved active of 100% natural origin (ISO16128) also proved its significant well-aging activity on the volunteers in an innovative in vivo study based on instrumental and artificial intelligence tools.


At Provital, we saw the scientific opportunity


that this represented and embarked upon the development of a new biotechnological plant ingredient that displayed senolytic activity in dermal fibroblasts to ultimately provide a cosmetic formula with an effective way of prolonging the skin’s youthful and healthy state. The resulting in vitro analysis is featured in


the poster ‘Senolysis, a cutting-edge strategy for healthy skin ageing, is activated by Althaea rosea stem cells’,5


which was ranked among the


top ten best posters at the IFSCC Congress 2020 in Yokohama out of a total of 367 exhibited. The analysis could be summarized as follows.


1. Dose-dependent senolytic activity β-galactosidase is a known and specific biomarker for senescent cells.8


So, it is no surprise


to see how senescent HDFs show a dramatic increase in the proportion of β-galactosidase- positive cells (Figure 1). The interesting part of this graph is that this


proportion decreases as the concentration of the Althaea rosea stem cells active increases, thus


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