FORMULATING FOR MILDNESS
39
study, but continues after 56 days. The placebo formulation seems to have a somewhat positive effect after 56 days as well, but is clearly outperformed by CB Complex (Figure 3). Lastly, the accumulated total volume of the
pores was determined. As was the case with circumference, with this parameter too, after 28 days of twice daily application the placebo formulation had a mild negative effect on the volume of pores; the volume increased by 3.7%. Overall, the accumulated volume of the pores was reduced by up to 15.5% with CB Complex (Figure 4). A final interesting and possibly
underexposed effect of common cosmetic formulations or ingredients on pore size was observed in this study. As can be seen from the INCI (Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, C 15-19 Alkane, Potassium Sorbate, Lactic Acid, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, Polyglycerin-6, Phenylpropanol), the placebo formulation did not contain any ingredients that are out of the ordinary. Admittedly, focusing on a sub-cohort of a
total cohort of 23 volunteers leads to loss of statistical power. However, different sub-
15 10 5 0
-5 -10
Number of pores
Volume Circumference
Surface Area
Figure 5: Effect on four important pore parameters for sub-cohort of volunteers 45+
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Placebo■ 3% CutiFine CLRTM
15 12 9 6 3 0
Day 28 Day 56
Figure 4: Reduction in accumulated circumference of pores (%)
cohorts did show similar trends concerning the negative effect of the placebo formulation on the four pore parameters measured. The detected number, circumference, surface area and volume were increased instead of decreased. The discrepancy between the activity of placebo and corresponding formulation with CB Complex was clearly increased. As an example, the results obtained on
Placebo■ 3% CutiFine CLRTM ■
■
the sub-cohort of volunteers aged 45 years and above (n = 6) after 56 days into the study (Figure 5). Apart from these results potentially illustrating the importance of raw material selection, they also illustrate the potency of CB Complex.
Conclusion As is mostly the case with skin challenges cosmetic active ingredients are faced with, the most effective and, simultaneously, mildest approach is to help the skin help itself. This also applies to the problem of conspicuous pores. Pores become more visible because of a wide array of cell biological processes which have lost their natural equilibrium, where one problem can lead to another. CB Complex was developed to work at the
core of the causes leading to this common problem with pores. It acts on all the most important features that make pores larger and lead to higher colour contrast. CB Complex acts on sebum production, barrier function, inflammation, free radicals, glycation, protein carbonylation, keratinocyte hyperproliferation and dermal structure. In the in vivo study which was performed, a
clear and positive effect could be shown with CB Complex, where, interestingly, the effect of the corresponding placebo formulation showed to be nonexistent to rather negative, especially for certain sub-cohorts of volunteers within the study. Indeed, the results obtained with these sub-cohorts need to be seen in the light of their small size. In addition, the cohort of volunteers
already had moderate to large pores, making their pores potentially more sensitive to treatment with skincare products. The obtained results, however, might merit further research into cosmetic formulations and raw materials and their potentially negative effect on the conspicuousness of pores.
Reference 1. Eiben-Nielson C et al. Development and validation of a global photonumeric scale for evaluating skin quality of aged female facial skin. J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2021 Dec;20(12):4032-4039
April 2023 PERSONAL CARE
PC
(%)
Reduction of surface area (%)
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124 |
Page 125 |
Page 126 |
Page 127 |
Page 128 |
Page 129 |
Page 130 |
Page 131 |
Page 132 |
Page 133 |
Page 134 |
Page 135 |
Page 136 |
Page 137 |
Page 138 |
Page 139 |
Page 140 |
Page 141 |
Page 142 |
Page 143
