FORMULATING FOR MILDNESS
foundations, coloured creams, BB Creams and sunscreen emulsions loaded with both organic and inorganic filters. Anhydrous systems wise, the Olivoil emulsifiers are suitable for the formulation of solid cleansers and bars with ‘surgras’ effect as well as formulations of lipid sticks.
The skin barrier restoring action promoted
by the unique composition of the unsaturated fatty acids from olive oil, the oat polypeptides tensor/film-forming effects and glutamic acid moisturizing properties, enable to give to each of the above applications a unique sensory profile, with silicone-like after feel, a dose- dependent hydration and emollience (‘second skin’ effect) and therefore the development of sophisticated and luxury textures while maintaining a simple formulation framework, with few ingredients required, in line with the trend of ‘skinimalism’ and the ‘less is more’ philosophy.
Way of use and formulations The method of use is also characterized by a marked versatility. After adding the emulsifiers in the oil phase until to the melting point (about 65-70°C), it is possible either to resort to methods of direct emulsification (adding the whole melted oily phase to the aqueous phase) and indirect emulsification. In this case, one-third of the aqueous phase is added beforehand to the oily phase containing the emulsifier to form an extemporary water-in-oil emulsion. Finally, the remaining two-thirds of aqueous phase is added after a few minutes to generate the phase inversion. The pH of use varies between a suggested minimum value of 5.0 up to higher alkaline values (8.0). Tables 1-5 show some examples of sensorially advanced formulation bases following the previously described principles of the minimalism.
Conclusion In compliance to the latest trends where sustainability, ethics and cleanliness concepts merge, the food-upcycled Olivoil emulsifiers represent a green breakthrough solution. They enable the development of a wide variety of cosmetics applications with peculiar silicon like texture and proven skin barrier restoring features. The patented references Olivoil
Avenate Emulsifier (with POHOP as main emulsifying unit) and the 100% palm-free Olivoil Glutamate Emulsifier G-PF (SOG) were designed through the combination of ingredients with proven functional added value to obtain oil-in-water anionic emulsifiers.
These emulsifiers are able to build stable
lamellar liquid crystal systems and emulsions with variable characteristics and sophisticated texture with full alignment to the ‘skinimalism’ trend, enabling to build a technologically advanced sensorial profile despite reducing the amount of raw materials to use in formula, while showing consistent functional benefits on skin barrier integrity restoring and promoting significant tensor effect and hydration properties.
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TABLE 1: PALM FREE-BASE FOR FACE CREAM Phase Ingredients / INCI A1
A2 Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil A3 Tocopheryl acetate B1 Aqua
B2 Xanthan gum C
Preservatives, parfum and pH regulator
49
OLIVOIL GLUTAMATE EMULSIFIER G-PF
w/w (%) 5.0
10.0 1.0
to 100 0.5
as needed
Procedure: Mix phase A ingredients and heat until solids fusion. Mix phase B ingredients and heat to a temperature of 75°C +/- 1° C mixing. Mix phase A and B, stir and homogenize for 10 minutes. Cool down to 40°C. Stir and add C, homogenizing after each addition. Finally set the pH within a range of 5.0-8.0.
TABLE 2: DEO ROLL-ON: HYPERFLUID EMULSION Phase Ingredients / INCI A1
OLIVOIL GLUTAMATE EMULSIFIER G-PF
A2 Coco caprylate/caprate A3 Dicaprylyl carbonate A4 Tocopheryl acetate B1 Aqua
B2 Aqua, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate B3 Xanthan gum, sclerotium gum B4 Chondrus crispus extract C1 DEOHAP DRY
D Preservatives, parfum and pH regulator
w/w (%) 2.0
2.0 4.5 0.2
to 100 0.2 0.4
0.25 20.0
as needed
Procedure: Mix phase A ingredients and heat until solids fusion. Mix phase B ingredients and heat to a temperature of 75°C +/- 1° C mixing. Mix phase A and B, stir and homogenize for 10 minutes. Cool down to 40°C. Stir and add C homogenizing. Add D homogenizing after each addition. Finally set the pH within a range of 5.0-8.0.
TABLE 3: BASE FOR FACE SERUM Phase Ingredients / INCI A1
A2 Coco-caprylate A3 Squalane B1 Aqua
B2 Propanediol
B3 Xanthan gum, sclerotium gum C Nylon-11
D Preservatives, parfum and pH regulator
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER
w/w (%) 2.0
3.0 1.5
to 100 3.0 0.4 2.0
as needed
Procedure: Mix phase A ingredients and heat until solids fusion. Mix phase B ingredients and heat to a temperature of of 75°C +/- 1° C mixing. Mix phase A and B, stir and homogenize for 10 minutes. Add C, cooling down down to 40°C. Stir and add D homogenizing after each addition. Finally set the pH within a range of 5.0-8.0
TABLE 4: HYDRATING BODY SPRAY Phase Ingredients / INCI A1
A2 Octyldodecanol A3 Isopropyl Myristate A4 Tocopheryl Acetate B1 Aqua
B2 Glycerin B3 Microcrystalline cellulose D Preservatives, parfum and pH regulator
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER
w/w (%) 4.0
6.0 6.0 1.0
to 100 1.0
2.0 as needed
Procedure: Mix phase A ingredients and heat until solids fusion.Mix phase B ingredients and heat to a temperature of of 75°C +/- 1° C mixing. Mix phase A and B, stir and homogenize for 10 minutes. Cool down to 40°C. Stir and add C homogenizing after each addition. Finally set the pH within a range of 5.0-8.0.
TABLE 5: BASE FOR BODY BUTTER Phase Ingredients / INCI A1
A2 Coco caprylate
A3 Caprylic/capric triglyceride A4 Cetyl alcohol
A5 Tocopheryl acetate B1 Aqua
B2 Glycerin C
PC Preservatives, parfum and pH regulator
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER
w/w (%) 10.0
9.0 7.0 5.0 1.0
to 100 3.5
as needed
Procedure: Mix phase A ingredients and heat until solids fusion. Mix phase B ingredients and heat to a temperature of of 75°C +/- 1° C mixing. Mix phase A and B, stir and homogenize for 10 minutes. Cool down to 40°C. Stir and add C homogenizing after each addition. Finally set the pH within a range of 5.0-8.0
April 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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