58 MARINE INGREDIENTS
180 160 140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0
C+ C-
+44% +16% *
120 100 80 60 40 20 0
PSK 1% OSM PSK 2% OSM
Figure 5: Procollagen I effect of Osmocean PSK 1 and 2%. Error bars (Standard desviation). * p<0.05 versus C-
area (µm2), compared to saline stress control treatment (Figure 3). There was an impressive visual difference
between cells protected by 2% marine ingredient compared to stressed ones (Figure 4).
Procollagen I production effect This study was conducted to assess the procollagen I production stimulation capacity in human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) previous cytotoxicity test to determinate optimal concentration. 2% marine ingredient showed a high increase in procollagen I production (>44%) and a moderate increase at 1% (>15%) relative to the negative control (Figure 5).
Antioxidant effect The antioxidant capacity of the marine ingredient was assessed by ABTS test. ABTS was oxidized by potassium persulfate, giving a radical that absorbs at 734nm, which was formed by losing an electron by the nitrogen atom of ABTS. When an antioxidant molecule is mixed with this solution, the solution is decolourized.
The absorbance of the marine ingredient A C+ C-
+33%
+22% *
PSK 1% OSM * PSK 2% OSM
Figure 6: Antioxidant TROLOX test of Osmocean PSK 1 and 2%. Error bars (Standard desviation). * p<0.05 versus C
was measured and compared to the blank control with contained only water. The marine ingredient offered an antioxidant capacity of 33%, dilucidating a great well-ageing effect (Figure 6).
In vivo studies of the marine ingredient As we saw in a previous article,11
the clinical
efficacy of the marine ingredient was conducted in a double-blind in vivo study with 40 volunteers for 28 days. The main results were the improvement of firmness and uniformity complexion of skin. The moisturizing index showed an increase
of 12.7% and elasticity index shown 16% in after 28 days. Additionally, the length and area of wrinkles was reduced by up to 45% and 28%, respectively. The impressive reduction on wrinkles and fine lines is shown in Figure 7.
Formulation example The marine ingredient is based on a fraction of saccharides from up-cycling marine holobionts raw material. This fraction is the residue of the ethanolic fraction extracted to
A
produce other cosmetic active ingredients. This biorefinery process uses only environmentally friendly solvents, as in the case of the marine ingredient, which is extracted using only distilled water. This well-ageing ingredient is water soluble,
over 100% natural origin content (ISO 16128) and vegan and COSMOS-approved. It is easy to formulate with other natural ingredient to create a successful well-ageing end products using some marketing claims such as: ■ Moisturizer to reinforce the skin barrier due to its osmoprotective effect. ■ Firming and lifting to reduce fine lines and wrinkles thanks to the action of procollagen I ■ Well-ageing owing to ROS scavenging and antioxidant protection ■ Eye contour formulation example is showed on Table 2.
Conclusion Marine saccharides from marine holobiont extracts have a multifunctional well-ageing effect. These natural molecules exert beneficial effects on skin ageing, such as performing osmoregulation, improving cell volume and making the skin appear healthier and younger. They also allow other bioactive molecules,
such as proteins to stabilize under desiccation conditions (dehydrated skin) or stimulate collagen production. In addition, they have antioxidant effect scavenge ROS allowing reducing the impact of external factors such as UV radiation and pollutants.
B B
References 1. Kohl E, Steinbauer J, Landthaler M, Seimies R-M. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology. 2011; 25, 873–884
2. Chung JH, Kang S, Varani J, Lin J, Fisher GJ, Voorhees JJ. J. Invest. Dermatol. 2000; 115: 177–182
3. Kraan S. Carbohydrates - Comprehensive Studies on Glycobiology and Glycotechnology. 2012, 1–44. IntechOpen
Figure 7: In vivo study of Osmocean PSK 2%. Note: visual effect on eye contour wrinkles (A) and fine lines on forehead (B) at D0 and D28
PERSONAL CARE April 2023
4. Hasenecz ES, Jayarathne T, Pendergraft MA. ACS Earth and Space Chemistry. 2020;4(9):1638–49
www.personalcaremagazine.com
PC
Procollagen I (ng/ml) value
Trolox (%)
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