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42 LIFESTYLE COSMETICS


water-based systems. The organically modified hectorite, key ingredient of Elementis’ range of Bentone Gel®, Bentone Luxe and the latest addition Bentone Plus Glow – hereafter known as the hectorite skin glow gel - provides thixotropic rheology, suspension of actives and pigments, improved stability (especially at elevated temperatures) and enhanced delivery on application in oil-based systems. Organically modified hectorite furthermore


enables unique film formation on the skin (Figure 3), which is crucial to achieve an even distribution of sunscreen actives to enable a strong protection with a boosted SPF and an improved wash off resistance.


Formulating for the skin glow trend With the hectorite skin glow gel, Elementis launches its first patent pending Bentone Gel technology based on organically modified hectorite as delivery system for an optimized skin care matrix. The gel supports the skin’s own transformative power to reveal the natural radiance of the skin, while it is the perfect companion for creating sensorially outstanding pigmented products for an instant boost of radiance. Its natural active matrix addresses different pathways to improve the skin’s condition which supports the natural glow of the skin. The organically modified hectorite used in the


hectorite skin glow gel will be the driver for the final products’ exceptional sensory, the excellent suspension and stabilization of pigments and actives and the unique film formation on the skin for utmost coverage conformity (Figure 4) and protection. This long-term efficacy enhancement of a formula through even distribution of the actives matrix is the key enabler for the skin glow effect. The organically modified hectorite network


provides emulsion stabilization and helps to lock moisture in and on the skin (Figure 5).This phenomenon provides a stable matrix to deliver the skin care actives complex in the hectorite skin glow gel, which maintains a uniform application on the skin longer. Based on the organically modified hectorite


network, an optimized selection of natural skin empowering ingredients complement the unique composition of the hectorite skin glow gel (Figure 6). Hemisqualane is a C13-15 Alkane and a


lightweight, non-comedogenic emollient that acts as a microbiome-friendly refatting agent, known to reduce the transepidermal water loss


= UV Filters UV Hectorite UV


Cream layer immediately after


application UV


Cream layer after settling on the skin


UV without


130 98 65 33 0


Hectorite


Sodium Magnesium Silcate


Magnesium Aluminum Silcate


Figure 1: CEC (in milliequivalents of cations/100 g soil) of different clay materials


cholesterol-like ingredients that feature a skin soothing and anti-inflammatory effect. They are known to protect the cellular membrane and strengthen the cutaneous barrier. Antioxidative characteristics have been widely studied, including scavenging of free radicals, inhibition of lipid oxidation, reduction of hydroperoxide formation.8 Unsaponifiables pose a fraction of a


natural oil that cannot be processed further. They mostly consist of phytosterols and the


Figure 2: Ideal and stable suspension of actives, powders and pigments within the hectorite network


and subsequently helps with hydration and moisture retention in the skin.2


Hemisqualane


is derived from certified-sustainably sourced sugar cane and produced via a resource efficient biotechnology production route.3 Grape seed oil is a polyphenol rich


moisturizing oil demonstrating an excellent affinity with skin and easily penetrating the top layers of the skin.4,5


Linoleic acid is


known as an antioxidant, restorative, calming, and discoloration-fighting ingredient.7 Grape phytosterols are naturally occurring,


Hectorite with It is high in content of linoleic


acid, which is not naturally synthesized by the human body, however the most abundant fatty acid found in the epidermis.6


natural component of the human skin squalene. Olive oil unsaponifiables are well known to restructure aged and damaged tissues, protect the skin against photo-oxidation and their bacteriostatic properties. Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil unsaponifiables optimize the skin’s barrier function by acting on the synthesis of key epidermic lipids.9


It offers a complete response


to the problems of dry, mature or reactive skin. Unsaponifiables thrive particularly in water-free systems, when they can fully interact with the skin’s moisture. Glyceryl oleate is a fully naturally-derived


emulsifier and skin conditioning agent that features smoothness and suppleness on the skin.10


Despite its well-known skin conditioning


benefits, glyceryl oleate plays an essential role in the patent pending hectorite gel activation, which enables its superior rheology and stabilization performance in the final formulation.


Formulation versatility and concept creation This new technology is designed for a high degree of formulation flexibility that allows for a coherent marketing concept throughout a full range of products while allowing for exciting formulation ideas. In skin care creams and lotions, the


hectorite skin glow gel is the ideal delivery and stabilization enhancer for the skin care actives complex helping the skin to get exposed to the actives in the best possible way and benefit from the skin nourishing actives complex in the long- term (Figure 7). In pigmented skin care products, the


Figure 3: Organically modified hectorite improves film thickness on application due to its excellent rheology


PERSONAL CARE April 2023


extraordinary suspension power of the clay network enables the pigments to reveal their full colour intensity and contribute even more to a radiant complexion on the skin (Figure 8).


www.personalcaremagazine.com


CEC (meq/100g)


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