INCLUSIVITY
and general lifestyle can all have a significant impact.
What is more, we know that almost three
quarters of consumers surveyed in the UK agree that products that provide the same benefits for people of all skin tones offer a platform for inclusivity.17
At one point in their
life, most people will suffer with ‘problem skin’, so consumers of all ethnicities will be searching for products that help to combat acne, dryness/ oiliness, sensitivity, and signs of ageing. In general, all consumers will be searching for products to help them on their journey towards eudermic skin. The most appropriate solution, then, is to
create products that meet these problem skin needs, while also being mindful of inclusivity. When creating products, brands should use ingredients that have been tested on multiple ethnicity panels. Furthermore, they should ensure that any
user testing or clinical trials include people with multiple skin tones, and that this is published clearly within the advertising. This would account for the overall skin variations that are inherently personal, while also allowing for the utmost inclusivity benefit to the consumer.
Gender Similarly, the changing men’s personal care market and attitudes within Millennials and Gen Z is leading to an increase in ‘non- binary beauty’. According to GWI, beauty and cosmetics are the ‘fastest-growing interest’ amongst male consumers globally, up 21% between 2018 and 2021.18 There is growth seen in all areas, with 269
million views for #boysinmakeup and 1 billion for #mensgrooming on TikTok, and an 80% increase in internet searches for ‘male makeup looks’.19
Voice of the Consumer Beauty Survey has shown a growth of around 5-10% in usage of cosmetics by men in all categories from 2016-2021, including the use of face masks,
Moreover, the Euromonitor International
highlighters and even lipstick.20 Male-marketed beauty and grooming is
expected to generate global sales of $81.2 billion by 2024.21
This is partly down to the
changing ideologies surrounding masculinity, and how men choose to define this for themselves. A lot of this change is influenced by
Hallyu, the Korean Wave, and the evolution of masculinity that has been taking place in South Korea since the 1990s. Today, South Korean men consume over $1 billion of cosmetics annually, and represent the most established male grooming market.22 Though in-part related to the K-pop
revolution, this change is also entrenched in Korean culture, with an expectation that your outward presentation and self-respect is the ultimate signifier of masculinity, and that ‘men can be just as beautiful as women’. In Western markets, this evolution is
encouraged more by the erosion of traditional gender norms and stigmas, particularly driven by the younger generations. For example, over 50% of Gen Z say that gender is nonbinary and encompasses a spectrum, and that traditional gender norms are outdated.23 More than one third also say that they know
someone who identifies with gender-neutral pronouns. If we look further at data from public online forums, nearly 40% of adults aged 18- 22 have shown an interest in gender-neutral beauty, and 25% want more diversity and representation in advertising.24
In a similar vein
to the Hallyu revolution, there is the general opinion that you are not tied to the gender that you were born with, and that beauty can be anything, anyone and any gender. Gender-neutral products are also key for
engaging with consumers online. Engagements with non-binary, transgender and gender-fluid beauty terms has increased by over 50% from 2019, as well as there being a 35% increase in gender-neutral beauty posts.25 We must also remember that the two top
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brands for engagement on social media, Fenty and NYX, are not only at the front of the pack with regards to inclusion of different ethnicities, but also because of their focus on gender-neutrality and equal representation. The majority of celebrity brands are also released under gender-neutral branding, including Humanrace by Pharrell Williams, and Pleasing by Harry Styles. Moreover, brand ambassadors are no longer
exclusively female, with Olympic gold medallist diver Tom Daley being appointed as Rimmel’s global brand ambassador for Match Perfection foundation in October 2022. As with catering for different ethnicities,
brands need to be aware of the differences that may be present in ‘male’ and ‘female’ skin. Mainly, males have reported to have higher sebum production and a larger pore size, their skin can be thicker and more pigmented. They can also have increased wrinkles, and skin that is generally less smooth than female skin.26
Men
can also suffer from shaving-related issues, such as ingrown hairs, and bumps and burns.27 However, one must also consider that many
of these comparative studies would have been conducted with females that have used skin care previously, versus males that are traditionally less likely to have used skin care products. It is therefore difficult to ascertain if these conclusions are derived from physical differences in skin, or from the fact that men have not conventionally used skin care products in the past. In any case, this changing opinion will mean that inclusive products will be the new standard. Brands will need to rethink their positioning and align with more neutral messaging. We already see brands moving to accommodate this, with Tom Ford, MAC and Aesop, for example, removing gender-based marketing and transitioning towards selling unisex products. Gender-neutral products also allow a
brand and their product range to be pitched towards answering specific customer concerns around skin or lifestyle-related issues that are experienced by all genders, rather than to a male or female market. As with catering for inclusivity with regards
to different ethnicities, when creating gender- neutral products, brands should use ingredients that have been tested on panels that include multiple genders. Furthermore, they should ensure their
products are then tested for effectiveness on various genders, and that this is published within the advertising. This again, is the most appropriate way for brands to account for consumers’ inclusivity needs.
Conclusion Inclusive beauty is reshaping the personal care industry. Markets that were previously seen as ‘niche’, like gender-neutral skin care, are now getting the attention they deserve. The challenge ahead for the personal care
industry is how to best cater for the inclusivity needs of consumers without being exclusionary. They must also embrace inclusivity, to create products that deliver the efficacy and performance the consumer expects.
www.personalcaremagazine.com April 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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