56 MARINE INGREDIENTS


adhesion to the material superfine and create a barrier between the material and the corrosive environment. Holobiont turgor of cells is also required


for the normal growth of the holobiont community. This mechanism is highly correlated with the osmotic pressure balance between the inside and outside of the cells. The organic osmolytes produced by marine holobionts allow them to maintain higher pressures inside the cells creating a flow of osmolytes between phytoplankton and marine bacteria.11 Marine holobionts are, indeed,


carbohydrate factories as they can interact and grow in diverse habitats, creating a net of saccharides of different nature. EPs are a type of saccharides exuded out of cells, protecting them, and serving as a food source for its microbiota structuring the holobiont net. EPs and other added saccharides are


valuable sources for cosmetics as all-round anti-ageing agents. On one hand, they improve the turgor of the epidermal cells,11 and, on the other hand, they promote the production of collagen, which is particularly abundant in the dermal matrix.13


Saccharides as valuable osmoregulators on epidermis and dermis Marine holobionts can survive in desiccation conditions thanks to hydrophilic properties of saccharides that lead to retain water and regulate homeostasis. Similarly, human cells contain saccharides, known as glycans. They are found all over the outer surface of our cells and play a key role in cell-to-cell communication as connecting molecules. Regarding anti-ageing, glycans are


responsible for the communication between the dermis and epidermis to synthesise collagen, and these glycans decrease as we age due to UV radiation or xenobiotic molecules over exposition. The skin must be constantly fighting to maintain the balance of compounds, including water. Water levels are vital for structural integrity, cell volume, barrier function and immune defence, which impacts the healthy appearance of the skin.11 In this regard, marine EPs are perfect


candidates when applied on skin as they mimic the effect of natural skin polysaccharides. They can be applied on the skin surface forming a gelatinous layer of bioactive saccharides that can perform osmoregulation, making the skin appear healthier and younger. Moreover, some saccharides allow other


bioactive molecules, such as proteins to stabilize under desiccation conditions or stimulate collagen production. The skin has plenty of diverse bioactive molecules helping the homeostasis process that include aquaporins (AQPs), lipids or saccharides. Saccharides accomplish numerous functions on skin layers (Table 1), but without doubt, one of great importance is the water balance maintenance due to their capacity to form water bindings and the stimulation of collagen production.12,13


PERSONAL CARE April 2023 1 sugar unit Monosaccharides


TABLE 1: MARINE SACCHARIDES AND DERIVATES FROM MARINE HOLOBIONTS EXTRACT 14-25, 28 *SACCHARIDES FOUND IN OSMOCEAN PSK


Saccharide Group Subgroup


Compound Fructose* Fucose


Galacturonic and glucuronic acids


Glucose*


Skin effect/Claim Moisturizing effect Moisturizing effect Moisturizing effect Whitening effect Moisturizing effect Whitening effect Moisturizing effect


Galactose*


Mannose* Rhamnose


Ribose


3.6 Anhydro-L- Galactose


Trehalose* 2 Sugar Units Disaccharides >9 Sugar units


Polysaccharides (also Glycans)


Neoagarobio Neoagarotet Fucoidan Carrageenan


Compounds derived from saccharides


C6-alcohols


Alginates Mannitol*


Myoinositol* C9-alcohols The most important saccharide Galactosylglycerol


groups and functions ■ Monosaccharides are the simplest saccharides since they are composed of a single sugar unit. They can be classified according to their carbon units, but also according to their functional groups. We find ketopentoses, such as arabinose, ribose, or xylose; aldohexoses, such as rhamnose, glucose, galactose and fucose; and ketohexoses, such as fructose and mannose, and compounds derived from monosaccharides, such as glucuronic or galacturonic acids and mannitol. A common and important characteristic of


monosaccharides is their moisturising effect, given by the hydroxyl (-OH) groups in their structure, which readily establish hydrogen bonds with water. Some monosaccharides such as rhamnose have demonstrated


Whitening effect Antioxidant


Antiinflamatory


Moisturising effect Moisturising effect Moisturizing effect


Radiant and glowing skin Self-tanning promotor


Whitening effect


Moisturising effect Moisturizing effect Whitening effect Whitening effect


Moisturizing effect


Moisturizing effect Antioxidant Antioxidant


Moisturizing effect Moisturizing effect Cell protector


Moisturizing effect Antioxidant


26


22 28


23 24 15 30 25


Ref (Word) 22 14


20


22 15


23


27 28 14


to increase skin thickness and stimulate procollagen I synthesis and others like fucose, mainly present in brown algae, have proved to have anti-aging effects by increasing skin thickness, accelerating tissue regeneration, and reducing wrinkles.14,15 Glucose and fructose monosaccharides


play crucial roles in maintaining a healthy skin as they link the amino acids of the collagen and elastin.16


Besides, compounds derived


from some monosaccharides like galacturonic acid are multifunctional active sugars as they play a whitening effect on skin apart from their anti-aging role.17 ■ Disaccharides are compounds formed from the linkage of two monosaccharides by glycosidic linkage. Trehalose is a non-reducing disaccharide


consisting of two monomers of glucose with 1,1- glycosidic bonds which is found in bacteria


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