Volume 24 Issue 4
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CONTENTS
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REGULARS 5
News
Editor’s Comment
6 Cover Story: Ashland 9
136 Formulations Get inspiration for your next project
with a selection of prototype formulations from the world’s leading ingredient suppliers
FEATURES 17
17 Interview: Making your own
Formula Botanica CEO Lorraine Dallmeier talks the latest industry trends, her courses and gives tips for prospective formulators
23 Suppliers’ Day: reimagining renewal and wellness
A look ahead to the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ Suppliers’ Day, which takes place on 2-3 May in New York City
31 Mild retinol alternative for global compliance
Eastman has developed a retinyl linoleate ingredient offering assurance to formulators and brands with its high purity and sustainable manufacturing process
37 Tackling conspicuous pores from start to finish
CLR explains its new ingredient designed to reduce the visibility of the pores on their face with a milder solution than traditional methods
41 Radiance unleashed with hectorite tech
Elementis has launched a hectorite skin glow gel offering a proprietary and unique blend of well-known skin care actives with proven benefits
47 Food-upcycled emulsifiers for clean beauty
In response to the latest trends where sustainability, ethics and cleanliness concepts merge, Kalichem has developed a range of food-upcycled emulsifiers
51 Upcycled active for hair greying prevention
Mibelle Biochemistry explains its anti-hair greying essence that stimulates melanin synthesis and protects melanocytes from stress-induced malfunction
55 Marine saccharides: recovering ageing skin
Microalgae Solutions describes the richness and diversity of marine saccharides obtained by a novel patented blue biotechnology
61 Bitter is better: new way to sooth sensitive skin
Lipoid Kosmetik has combined bitter andrographolide from Andrographis paniculata leaves and sweet glycyrrhetinic acid from Glycyrrhiza glabra roots to reduce inflammatory responses
68 Pumpkin seed extract to boost skin energy
Rahn describes the secret of how a Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin seed) extract in its new active can energise keratinocytes in skin
72 Novel plant growth factor as cosmetic ingredient
Vitamin C60 BioResearch has developed a plant-based active found to increase stratum corneum water content, decrease TEWL and
increase skin lightness
76 Why multifunctionals should be on your radar
Oleon extols the benefits of using cosmetics and personal care ingredients that impart different benefits in different formulations
81 The significance of sustainable supply chains
Chemical Business Association on why sustainable supply chains are not only good for the planet and people, but also support profitable operations
85 Natural emulsifier for a sensitive skin shield
Gattefossé has developed a natural O/W emulsifier that shields external aggressions and soothes the most sensitive skin
91 Biotics as game-changer for healthy skin ageing BASF explores two new biotic active ingredients derived from the Lactobacillus crispatus bacterium
96 Skin pH assessment for sensitive skin claims
Courage + Khazaka looks at how to achieve effective a detailed overview of the exact state of the skin
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April 2023 PERSONAL CARE
106 Dermohacking senescence with a lab-grown active
Provital has developed an Althaea rosea (hollyhock) flower stem cell active with proven ability to selectively eliminate skin cellular senescence
110 Upcycled patchouli for active scalp care
Givaudan explores its patchouli leaf active that restores sebum production, skin barrier function and hydration in the scalp
114 Harnessing the power of upcycled waste
Clariant explains how it develops ingredients sourced from upcycled processes with a wide variety of benefits for people and planet
118 Active ingredient for smiling beauty
Roelmi HPC has developed an active ingredient from enzymatic technology that fights low cellular energy levels and recharges the skin’s natural ecosystem to leave it looking younger and more radiant
121 A how-to guide for personal careinclusivity
The challenge ahead for the personal care industry is how to best cater for the inclusivity needs of consumers without being exclusionary, says Lake Personal Care
125 Skin penetration: next generation in vitro testing
Revivo Biosystems offers promising reasons to choose next-generation skin-on-chip in vitro and ex vivo testing platforms over animal tests.
128 Using the BRAG system to evaluate sustainability
Tony O’Lenick of Surfatech examines how to establish a working approach to the environmental aspect of the critically important sustainability topic
132 A natural alternative for gel-cream textures
Alchemy Ingredients describes a credible alternative to synthetic emulsifier-thickeners, giving a light, silky texture using all-natural components
68 106 101 Hydrophilic peptide for preserving beauty
Lubrizol explains how its hydrophilic peptide can prevent the emergence of expression wrinkles that might appear in the future, without negatively affecting facial expressions
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