38 FORMULATING FOR MILDNESS
more obvious factor in the conspicuousness of pores: their size. Indeed, the dermal structure around the pores gives the pores and related follicular structure underneath much-needed structural support. A reduction in quality of the dermal structure takes place with age and/or can be caused by inflammatory processes and the downstream protease-induced breakdown of collagens. Glycation of dermal collagens plays a
role in the reduction of structural support of the hair follicles deep inside the skin as well. Also, oxidative processes can induce collagen destruction. Altogether, an active ingredient which claims to have a 360° approach towards making skin pores less visible also needs to address the dermal compartment. A final feature encompasses hyperproliferation
of the keratinocytes of the hair follicle. As mentioned above, inflammatory processes play a role in colour contrast of the pores with their surroundings and the breakdown of the dermal structural support of the follicle underneath the pore. These inflammatory processes, however, also can induce a strong increase in the proliferative capacity of the epidermal keratinocytes on the inside ‘wall’ of the hair follicles. Hyperproliferation of these keratinocytes will increase the surface area of this ‘wall’, which is pushed up and outwards, increasing the surface area, i.e. size of the pore.
Cell biological approaches An effective 360° approach towards reducing the conspicuousness of pores needs to address all biological features mentioned. As can be deduced from the above, reduction of sebum production should be one of the core competences of such an active ingredient. An important and effective cell biological approach is to reduce the presence of 5α-reductase. 5α -reductase converts testosterone into
dihydrotestosterone (DHT). DHT has a much higher affinity to androgen (male hormone) receptors than testosterone. Interaction of DHT with androgen receptors in sebocytes in skin leads to higher sebum production, i.e. hyperseborrhea, or oily skin. A reduction of 5α -reductase will therefore lead to a reduction of sebum production. Within the follicle, the barrier function
of the above-mentioned wall of follicular keratinocytes needs to be addressed as well.
Placebo■ 3% CutiFine CLRTM
20 15 10 5 0
-5 Day 28 Day 56
Figure 2: Reduction in accumulated surface area of pores (%)
PERSONAL CARE April 2023 ■
15 12 9 6 3 0
-3 Day 28 Day 56
Figure 3: Reduction in accumulated volume of pores (%)
Placebo■ 3% CutiFine CLRTM
15 12 9 6 3 0
Day 28 Day 56
Figure 1: Reduction of detectable number of pores (%)
The maintenance of an intact barrier function will reduce inflammation and hyperproliferation of these keratinocytes. Obviously, both these features require attention, as it is not enough to focus on barrier function alone. Apart from strengthening barrier function, reduction of inflammation and hyperproliferation are, therefore, key elements of the active ingredient, too. Free radicals also play multiple detrimental
roles in the visibility of pores. An active ingredient which actively works inside the skin should reduce the presence of free radicals. Related to this protein, carbonylation and glycation are another key focus. Lastly, maintenance and improvement of the dermal structure around the hair follicle is a must. CLR has developed CutiFine CLR™ (CB
Complex; INCI: Water Vaccaria Segetalis (Cowherb) Extract (and) Adansonia Digitata (Baobab) Pulp Extract) which was designed to address all important cell biological features which make pores more conspicuous. Numerous in vitro studies were performed to address its effectiveness on a cell biological level, based on the above description of the relevant cell biological events. The results of these studies, however, are not shown in this article. Instead, the focus is placed on the in vivo study which was performed with CB Complex. This study leads to some surprising results.
A study providing some interesting insights An in vivo study was performed on 23 female
Placebo■ 3% CutiFine CLRTM ■ ■
volunteers with moderate to severe presence of conspicuous pores.1
Fifteen volunteers had
combination skin, 4 had oily and 4 had dry skin. The test products were an oil-in-water emulsion containing 3% CB Complex and corresponding placebo, which was identical but did not contain CB Complex. The selected volunteers were randomized and applied one of the products (twice daily, morning and night) in each half of the face for 56 days. At Days 0, 28, and 56 the volunteers visited
the test facilities for skin measurements. Upon arrival, volunteers were allowed to acclimatize to environmental conditions (21 ± 2°C, 45 ± 10% humidity) for 15 minutes. Subsequently, facial pores were evaluated in both sides of the face (cheek area, near the nose) by 3D image analysis using AEVA-HE V4 system (Eotech SAS, Marcoussis, France). The volunteers were installed on the
VisioTOP-500 bench for accurate and stable positioning and repositioning between the different measuring times. The AEVA-HE technology is based on digital fringe projection and stereometry. The fringes are detected with two cameras and the three-dimensional structure (in this study: pores) is assessed from the position of the fringes. Four parameters related to pores were
analyzed: their number, circumference, surface area and volume. The number of pores, strictly speaking, does not change over a lifetime. In general, pores cannot disappear or appear. They can change in size, however. When pores become larger, they will be detected by the AEVA HE technology. This implies that by using AEVA HE technology the number of detected pores can become larger with increasing size of pores. This is what was determined in the study. To quantify the overall effect of the
test products, the accumulated values for circumference, surface area and volume were quantified. As such, the results presented below do not represent results obtained on single pores but the accumulated results on all pores in the area of the skin where the measurements took place.
The number of detected pores on the
skin treated with CB Complex was reduced by 7.5% at 28 days into the study. This figure continued to increase to 11.7% after 56 days. The skin treated with the corresponding placebo formulation only showed a reduction of detectable pores by roughly 2% at both timepoints. These results show that CB Complex can clearly reduce the number of pores which can be detected by the AEVA HE technology, indicating that it can reduce the number of conspicuously visible pores (Figure 1). The results are confirmed when focusing
on the accumulated circumference of the skin pores. Especially after 56 days a clear positive effect can be observed with CB Complex. Interestingly, at day 28 the placebo formulation looks to have a somewhat negative effect on this parameter (Figure 2). As is the case for the accumulated
circumference, the total surface area of the pores is also clearly reduced with the formulation containing 3% CB Complex. This trend already starts after 28 days into the
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Reduction of volume (%)
Reduction of circumference
Reduction of number of pores (%)
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