98 DERMOCOSMETICS
Conclusion Whether a daily skin care product or a dermocosmetic targeted product, demand for cosmetic products is higher than ever before. In the latter, consumers tend to demand more efficacy and safety with regards to active ingredients than in the former. To address this, raw material providers will need to continue delivering innovative products by keeping up with the latest developments in multifunctional active ingredients. The efficacies of TPNa and APPS were
summarized in previous sections. TPNa has already been approved for use as an active and additive in Japanese quasi-drugs due to its anti-inflammatory effect, highlighting its safety and effectiveness. Once it has penetrated the skin, TPNa is digested by dermal enzymes. Thus, yielded tocopherols and phosphates from TPNa that originally exist in the body are likely to have no side effects, addressing the contentious point of safety in ingredients. Similarly, a 1% aqueous solution of APPS, an amphiphilic derivative of vitamin C aimed at improving the stability and skin permeability of vitamin C, showed higher permeation ability than other hydrophilic vitamin C derivatives, successfully delivering vitamin C to the dermis. Moreover, in addition to its anti-acne and anti-ageing effects, APPS was found to exert an inhibitory effect on melanin synthesis without harming melanocyte bioactivity. This suggests that APPS can be safely
added to brightening cosmetic products. We can say APPS is safe because it is digested by dermal enzymes, such as TPNa, into vitamin C, palmitate, and phosphates, naturally occurring components of the skin. Additionally, it is worth noting that APPS has been present in the Japanese cosmetics market since 2003 with no reports of safety concerns from its consumers. Danaher Corporation (DHR) valued the
dermocosmetics skin care products market at $57.9 billion in 2022 and is expected to reach a market size of $119.7 billion by 2032, with a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 7.6%. Dermocosmetic skin care products
increasingly contain active ingredients that target specific skin conditions. These products are created using advanced pharmaceutical ingredients and complex formulas designed to address multiple concerns and provide a comprehensive approach for treating skin disorders.
BEFORE A
AFTER B
BEFORE A
AFTER A
B
B
Figure 4: Effect of vitamin derivatives on acne lesions. TPNa (A) and APPS (B) were applied for one and six months respectively. Significant examples were shown
This is in response to increasing demand,
with consumers becoming progressively inclined towards products that not only boost aesthetics but also address health concerns. Thus, the vitamin derivatives established in this study, TPNa and APPS, show potential to become one of these so-called hero ingredients to formulate multifunctional dermocosmetics. These vitamin derivatives offer multiple benefits simultaneously, facilitating the creation of formulations containing only a few ingredients but able to address multiple concerns.
derivative for total eye care. Personal Care. 2019 Feb; 35-38
3. Saeki Y, Iguchi R, Niibayashi R, Kato E. Cosmeceutical property of a new skin- permeable vitamin C derivative – trisodium ascorbyl 6-palmitate 2-phosphate (APPS). IFSCC Magazine. 2016; Mar;19(1):27-33.
4. Ikeno H. Current aspects and prospective problems of vitamin therapy. Fragrance Journal. 2007; 8:39-42.
5. Ito S, Niki E, Hat R. Provitamin C. 1st Fragrance Journal. 2014
PC
References 1. Shigeyama K, Ito S, Hisashi C, Kawata Y, Kato E, Sakaguchi I. Improvement in the water- holding capacity of the stratum corneum by sodium dl-α-tocopheryl-6-O-phosphate. IFSCC Magazine. 2019; Dec;4:231-36.
2. Saeki Y, Fukada G, Kato E. A new vitamin E
BEFORE A
ed. Tokyo:
6. Kato E, Takahashi N. Improvement by sodium dl-a-tocopheryl-6-O-phosphate treatment of moisture-retaining ability in stratum corneum through increased ceramide levels. Bioorganic & Medicinal Chemistry. 2012; 20(12):3837-42.
7. Task Force Committee for Evaluation of Anti- aging Function. Guideline for evaluation of anti-wrinkle products. Journal of Japanese Cosmetic Science Society. 2007; 31:431
AFTER B
1% TPNa PERSONAL CARE April 2025
1% APPS
Figure 5: Effect on fine lines in crow’s feet. TPNa (A) lotion and APPS (B) serum were applied for four and eight weeks respectively. Significant examples were shown
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1% APPS
1% TPNA
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