80 NATURAL INGREDIENTS A ■ w/o formulation ■ with formulation
1250 1000 750 500 250 0
* * * * * * * *
5 4 3 2 1
F: JV: - C
1250 1000 750 500 250 0
12 13 14 ■ w/o formulation ■ with formulation D 300 * * * * * * * 100 F: JV: - 12 13 14 15 0 * * 200 * * * * * * * 15 0 F: JV: - 12 13 14 ■ w/o formulation ■ with formulation 15 B ■ w/o formulation ■ with formulation * * * * * * * *
F: JV: - 12 13 14 15
Figure 5:The impact of jojoba oil on Collagen and Hyaluronic Acid synthesis. Five ex vivo human skin organ cultures were treated with and without jojoba preparations (four different jojoba batches [Marked 12-15], Blue bars – Pure oil; Orange bars – Oil Emulsion with Triton X-100). The left-most bars in each graph (not marked with a number) show the control culture that was not treated
oil for use on the skin. These results demonstrate not only the
ability of the oil to reduce inflammation but also its potential ability to increase the quantity and volume of collagen tissue and hyaluronic acid in the skin.
Additional future research Although it is one of the most investigated oils, future research of jojoba oil is still needed, in order to asses other potential benefits of the oil and other plant by-products. For example, Simmondsin, 2-(cyanomethylene)- 3-hydroxy-4,5- dimethoxycyclohexyl-beta- D-glucoside (Figure 6). Simmondsin was isolated and characterized by Elliger et al in 1973 and is known for its appetite suppressant characteristics.3 Simmondsin is present mainly in the seeds but also in other parts of the plant. Simmondsin is mainly present in the jojoba meal (jojoba leftover after oil extraction), and not so much in the oil itself. It is known that about 5% of Jojoba meal is simmondsin content. This molecule was investigated but not to
the level that might enable its potential use in pharma. This interesting path could lead to a
PERSONAL CARE April 2025 H3 CO H3 CO O OH
CN H
CH2
O H
OH Figure 6: Simmondsin structure
completely new applications and uses of jojoba derivatives. Previous studies also evaluated other
bioactive polyphenolic compounds but additional comprehensive investigation is needed on the jojoba leaf, twigs and meal, in order to potentially discover other potent jojoba compounds.
Conclusion Jojoba oil is one of the most frequently used oils in the cosmetic and pharma industries. Its unique characteristics make it an optimal ingredient in most skin and hair applications. Still, until now, and especially in the cosmetic industry, jojoba oil is perceived as an emollient
OH H H OH
OH H
with superb skin features but not as an active ingredient. The conclusive results of these two studies,
demonstrate the contribution of Jojoba oil in wound healing, anti-viral capability, improving skin texture, volume and viability, and highlight the significant benefits and attributes of jojoba oil in both cosmetics and pharma applications. Most importantly, these results are a call for
the cosmetic industry to internalize the paradigm shift we need to have for jojoba oil – from an emollient to an active ingredient.
References 1. Tietel Z et al. Anti-Herpes Simplex 1 Activity of Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Wax. Molecules. 2021, 26, 6059
2. Tietel Z et al. Topical application of jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis L.) wax enhances the synthesis of pro-collagen III and hyaluronic acid and reduces inflammation in the ex-vivo human skin organ culture model. Front. Pharmacol. 2024; 15:1333085
3. Elliger CA et al. Simmondsin, an unusual 2-cyanomethylenecyclohexyl glucoside from Simmondsia californica. Journal of Chemical Society. 1973; 2209-2212
www.personalcaremagazine.com PC
TGFβ3, pg/mL
Collagen, pg/mL
Hyaluronic acid ng/mL
mRNA Collagen (fold of control)
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